The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Rear Leaf Spring Eye Pin removal

I have a '51 3/4 ton Chevy. I've removed the bed, rear axle, one leaf spring. The driver side is giving me an issue on one eye pin, it's not moving. Well, it turns in place and moves just a hair but that's it. I can pound as hard as I like..but it does not move anymore. I'm not sure what the item is called that is riveted to the frame that the pin goes through to connect the spring to the frame...but at the end where the retaining pin screw goes through the casing and then the groove in the eye pin has broken off (the casing not the screw) I've tried an impact driver but does not budge. Anyone with suggestions? Is this piece that is riveted to the frame replaceable? (And...what is it called?) I have a relative who is a welder who thinks he can weld the broken piece back..I just don't know if that is the right way to go about this.
Thanks Kevin
Algonquin, IL.

I'd call it a spring hanger and there is no reason not to replace it. You'll just need to find a used one somewhere.

You don't say how you have the frame and spring supported as you try to remove the pin. I'd experiment with changing the load on the pin in case its still in tension somehow.

If I replace it..do I bolt the new (used one) on or find someone who can put rivets on of that size?

Sorry, I have the frame supported with jack stands. I've tried putting a floor jack under that leaf pin while pounding without success.

One more thought...if I cut the old hanger out...I still have the leaf pin stuck in it...so I still have the original problem...at least that is what I think. (Now remember you are talking to a newbie..so if I say something stupid...well, thanks for not laughing too hard)

I understand that you have removed the locking pin, correct? So normally you can drive the pin out from the inside of the frame. Maybe the pin is worn in such a way that a groove is hanging up in the hole. It probably would be good to have the spring free from all other attachments so that so can move it around.

If you go for a replacement hanger, look for bollts that are as close in in size as possible.

Yes, the locking pin is removed.

I changed all the spring bolts/pins bushings, shackels on my 58 . I believe they are similiar to the ones on your truck.
They are (hard) to get out.
I used a wd40, a propane torch, big hammer
Make sure the frame is supported and jack up the spring to remove any tension on the joint.
Lot of heat and pounding (3# hammer). The pin would move slightly, more wd40, more heat more hammer, plenty of bad words always helps. Finally they come out.

Your talking about me...and fire...that could be a bad combination. I'm the guy with one eye who stuck his hand in the wrong end of a snowblower once...me and fire just sounds dangerous (but...fun). I will get a torch (and...a fire Extinguisher) and give it a try. (I may check out the homeowners insurance first as well).
Thanks for all the suggestions. I will let you know how it goes.
K

Just in case it wasn't made clear, you heat the hanger red hot and then pound on the pin.

BUT! If you're going to replace the hanger anyway why not just cut through it with a cut off wheel and be done with it?

You're going to need a "new" one anyway.

Grinding will work. Try one than another.
The propane torch will not heat red hot and should not damage the hanger. The fire extinguisher or a bucket of water is a good idea, I keep both handy in my garage all the time.
I became a believer when a 55 Chrysler flood and caught fire when I was a kid. Learned fast

My spring hanger was broke on the bottom here and another shot here with a little pressure on it. I have a great machine shop available at work and they made it just like new in this picture. If you can't find a replacement maybe a machine shop can fix for you. I used grade 8 bolts to reattach. Have fun and good luck
Dan

So Chev416, Dan, from your pic it looks like it broke in about the same spot as mine...where the retaining pin slides in. From what you wrote I'm assuming you still cut the hanger off to repair it and then reattaced it?

Thanks everyone for the tips, not knowing what I'm doing I get discouraged quickly...but the tips encourage me to get back at it.
Kevin
Algonquin, IL

Post an ad in the Truck Parts Wanted forum. It's not worth taking a chance welding, just get a new one and replace it for the peace of mind.

hi I am a little late replying to this but it may help someone down the line. if you are trying to pound the pin out with a punch you maybe hitting the hanger and not the pin. on my 54 3/4 ton I had the same hanger break at the same place must be common. the hanger is not easy to find. I got mine from east west auto in ok.