The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop T5 in my 39

I have a 261 with 42-46 bell housing modified by Buffalo to accept my original pedals. I have what i believe to be a 42-53 flywheel and pressure plate. Both NOS bought here on the bolt. I have a TOB that looks to be about 1.75 inches long. I had everything bolted up and just put the pedals in. I put the hook on to the clutch fork and pedal with the return spring. There is a lot of play in the pedal and when i push on it, it doesnt look like there is no where near enough travel to release the clutch. My motor is not running yet. Just thought I would throw that in.

anyone have any ideas on what could be my problem?

thanks

matt

Does anyone have an idea what the length is of an original throw out bearing

The Parts Manual shows that all of the early (38-54, etc.) throwout bearings are 1-7/8" long. How much adjustment is left in the linkage?

Hoyt

i have maybe 3 threads on the hook end. being that my TOB is 1 3/4 could the 1/8" larger TOB make that much of a difference

I have been "playing" with my clutch linkage to try to get the necessary travel to release and engage the clutch.
I have concluded that when the clutch is in a released position, the through out bearing arm must be adjusted in the most furtherest back position. This allows the through out bearing arm the greatest distance to travel. From there, you actually have some room - not much - but some to adjust the clutch correctly.
There is more. To get the arm as far back as possible in the furtherest released position, the adjuster needs to be adjusted with all the threads taken up and the arm's "L" position right up on the through out bearing arm. At the same time, the link between that "L" arm and the bottom of the clutch pedal, where the link attaches, needs to set so the clutch is fully released and resting in a "0" position on the back of the toe board. From there you can begin adjusting to the specs we all know, i. e., releasing from the toe board at the standard distance.
In the case of my truck with a fairly new clutch in it, the adjustment above is the correct adjustment. Once I set the clutch up described above, it work perfect.
The process is a matter of geometry. I just had to lay on the creeper and study it for awhile before "I got it". It's not hard, but can be frustating.

I have taken up all the threads so the small nut is at the end of the threads going towards the hook end. I have the larger nut tightened up to the clutch fork. when i push the pedal down i cant turn the spine on trans. The pedal is bottomed out against the pedal bracket. Can it be that the old TOB which is an 1/8" longer makes that much of a difference than the one I have that is 1.75 inches


any help
thanks

I think i may have solved it. Like i said i have the 1 3/4" throw out bearing and im just getting it to release. I am going to order the original 1 7/8" to see if it works better.... My pedal seems to have alot of play though and with this smaller bearing i dont have much adjustment on the linkage

thanks

There are 2 different type diaphragm clutches. The early ones had the fingers parallel with the flywheel when bolted down. This type uses the long TO brg. The later type has the fingers protruding outward with the ends about at the edge of the cover.These are often called "beehive" clutches. They use the short TO brg. Often the beehive type is used for replacement. Either will work as long as they have the corresponding TO brg.

Thanks Wrench

I have a 9" clutch in there now.... and the fingers are flat when bolted down. I just ordered the longer TO bearing. I have it tomorrow and see what happens next. Hopefully another obstacle cleared.... WIth the help of the great people here at the stovebolt

thanks

Matt

I think you have it figured out. My TO bearing is the longer one.
Good luck!

I'm going to ask a weird question.... Does anyone know how tall a 6 bolt
pressure plate would be if were laying on flat surface?

I thought I had it figured out but I dont. I installed the 1 7/8" throw out and I am still having the problem. I just called Jim Carter and asked what the measurement of their 9" pressure plates. They told me to the fingers is 3 1/2". The one I have is like 2". I just was under truck and looking up at the TOB as I moved the foot pedal. my TOB has approximately 1" of space between the fingers and the TOB while the pedal is fully retracted position.

Could it be I have the wrong pressure plate? Was I lucky in the fact that the holes matched and I was able to bolt it up?

Any help would be great

Thanks
Matt

I just called Jim Carter to order the right pressure plate. Turns out in only measures 1 7/8" to the fingers. So I didnt order it cause thats what I have.... I added some pictures for one of you helpful guys to take a look and maybe you can point me the right way.

one is with the fork released and one is with it pulled. There appears to be 3/8" to 1/2" of travel in the TOB on the shaft before it touches the fingers.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/50657267@N08/4706678055/in/set-72157624290206840/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/50657267@N08/4707320136/in/set-72157624290206840/
Thanks

I have been doing alot of research on my problem of adjusting the clutch on my t5. I looked at my 39 shop manual and it shows one nut on each side of the clutch fork. I looked online at the 42 shop manual and it shows the 2 nuts on one side of the clutch fork. Could it be that because I am using a 42-46 bell housing that i need to set the adjusting nuts up to correspond to that bell housing and not how it was on my 39 bell housing?

thanks

Matt

Guys

This is where I am at..

I moved both nuts to the side of the clutch fork opposite of the hook end. I have the clutch for as far up towards the hook as it can go. When I depress the pedal I can turn the output shaft of the T-5. Now the clutch return spring pulls the pedal back nicely but the pedal falls over what would towards the floor of the cab.

I havent mentioned that I dont have the cab on the truck....

Question I now have is does the toe board act as a stop so the pedal cant fall down?

I just want to get this somewhat correct as I dont want to have to pull the trans once the cab is on


thanks

MOST DEFINITELY it acts as a stop!
This is a totally different situation from what I thought you had.....a situation where you can't adjust the clutch without knowing the "end points" of the clutch pedal travel. I think you have done about all you can do without the body on the chasis or the cab on the truck. You can fix this problem, but you need to move on with the project and worry about the clutch situation when that time comes in the assembly of the truck. At that time, you will be able to solve the problem if, in fact, there will really be a problem.

Ok Im a knuckle head on this one..... Left out that important piece of info about the cab..... Thanks for the help....

I will forge on to the next step....

Thanks
matt