The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Frame Painting

I’m about to send my frame out to be media blasted and when it gets back I want to have the materials on hand to paint it. My question is, how much do I need and what do y'all recommend? I have thought about using DP-90 and painting over it OR using POR-15 and not painting over it. I want something that is fairly tough and keeps rust away. Any recommendations?

Thanks!

I would use the dp 90 and paint over it, if you use the POR 15 you need to paint over it also, it will chalk.

Red,

POR = Paint Over Rust. Using POR over a rust free part is a complete and utter waste of time and money.

Do you plan to drive your truck in rain and snow? Are you planning a show truck? If the answer to either of these questions is no why not just save yourself all this expense and work and just paint your frame with enamel? Get a couple quarts of Rustolium or Valspar enamel, thin it to manufacturers specs and spray or brush it on.

Yea, yea I know it sounds so hopelessly old-fashion but it works. You'll have a perfectly rust resistant frame with a coat or two of durable, proven paint that will last long after you sell it.

I do plan on driving the truck in rain and snow and will use it on the farm. I want the most durable long lasting paint.

I have used Rustolium paints on farm equipment and seems to be ok, but it takes a long time to cure and has a tendency to show heavy oxidation. This seems to me that it's slowly breaking down and will eventually go away, albeit this may not be a problem for a frame that is under a truck.

My reason for considering POR-15 is because of its impressive salt spray testing durability. After some reading, I see this needs a top coat also.

If I were to spray the frame with DP-90, what would you recommend as a top coat? I'd like to maintain a semi-gloss finish.

Thanks!

I'm with Woody on the thoughts of what paint to use. As far as what paint mother nature can't tear up I'm still looking for that.

But the frame won't see that much sun light so it will last longer as far as fade goes.
Back in the 70's I painted a frame and suspension with Rusto red primer and topped it with Rusto enamel, 2 coats each. It's still there and looking good, cept for stone chips, but I don't know of a paint stones won't chip.

I don't know if Rustoleum is the same as it was, I do know it dries a lot faster now than it used to.
I think the main thing is to get good paint coverage and it will go the distance.
There is still paint on my 52 frame, 58 years later, and if the factory had put on a real good coat of paint there would be very little rust on it, but they gave it a quick shot of paint.

Just a hint- If your going to spray it, remember spray can't get to the cracks which is why I use a brush for that and around bolts and rivets.
Dan

Not to pick on any one individual but you read through these threads about painting frames (and there are many) and you'd think these guys are building something that has to last for a thousand years at the bottom of the ocean or something.

It's simply overkill and it's pervading just about every aspect of our society. If you don't toast your bread in a $300 toaster, you're not doing it right. If your car's glovebox doesn't have titanium roller bearings it's somehow inferior to one that does... and it just goes on and on and on.

It's an old truck frame. It's lasted 60 years with a cursory spritz of cheap paint. Why on earth would you feel compelled to treat it like it's going to dissolve overnight if you put a couple coats of (god forgive me) enamel on it?

I agree. I'm just going to ospho what I can and paint it with good old rustoleum.

All I did with my truck frame was marine kleen acid cleaner then pressure washed it, put in the garage over night to dry. The next morning I scraped it with a putty knife to get the scale off and painted it with POR-15 2 coats with a brush. It came out amazing. I have used POR-15 on my dump truck frame and inside the dump body and I have no complaints. A friend of mine is building a C-10 de greased the frame used pro prep primed it and painted it with a gun after sitting out side on black top while working on the body it started rusting again now he wants to sand blast it and use POR-15. I think paying someone to sand blast a frame and then paint it is a waste of time and money when there are products out there that you can use to paint over rust and I think looks great. On my frame you cant even see a line from a paint brush its almost self leveling.

I agree with Shane, sandblasting is not my bag and por15 is an awesome product. I started out trying that sandblasting crap and quickly found por products. I used a good stong putty knife, hammer and a dewalt grinder with a wire wheel for a couple of areas. Then sprayed marine clean and metal prep or etch and brushed on the por15. Much easier and cost effective method in my opinion. BTW:I have one of those pressure pot sandblasters with the hot as hades hood that I will sell ya.

Hank

http://www.hanklong.com/wwwhanklongcom/long-s-automotive/customer-vehicles-and-latest-work

check the last photo on the page for the interior using por15

Hank

If you use a primer use a dark one. I learned the hard way and had to paint a couple of times to get the frames nooks and crannies. Some pictures here. Have fun and good luck
Dan

I also agree, here's my chassis which was brush painted with POR-15.

I also agree with Woody regarding the factory paint/longevity issue,but as most of us spend all our hard earned $$$ on our trucks,we might as well help them survive another 60 years!
Plus it looks good too!