The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 41 Chevy 1/2 ton - front suspension

Hi folks,
I searched, and didnt find a good conversation on front axles, so I started this thread. If this has been discussed, please attach a link.

I am working on my 41 Chevy. I had sold a 46 a couple years ago with Mustang ll front clip, so this is my first solid axle.
I like it. Its a very beefy piece of iron. It has to stay.
I have been studying it and I think its good for what I want.
I am removing the 6, and putting in a 350/700r4 and a ford 9". I am most comfortable with this drive train.
I can do all the fabrication, no problem, I just need to ask all you Stovebolters who have gone there before me what the heck you did?

Some questions I have-

The hydraulic shocks, are they good? I would think they are rebuildable, are parts available?

The springs, are the stock springs enough for the V8/auto?

Brakes, I did read here that Nisson Hardbody disc brakes could be adapted. This is almost a must do for good dependable stopping. Are there other brakes any of you have found to work well.

The axle can be sleeved I understand and spindles are spindles, I guess.

One more thing as it relates to the front suspension, the frame. Should I box it up front? I know there is some technology with how the frame works.

I would love to hear all your experiences with the solid axle for the 41 Chevy truck (and any others that are similar)

Thanks

Welcome to the forums. I think your decision to stay with the straight axle is a good one.

I'm moving your question over to the Ho-Po shop where the guys that have done this kind of mods can help you.

There are kits on the market that will put either 6-lug or 5-lug disk brakes on your axle. The front axle is the same from '41 through '55 1st, though the spindles vary a little and the drum brakes do change from Huck to Bendix in the 50's.

First point is that you don't need to figure out your own approach to brakes a solution can be bought from most the old truck vendors.

Second point is that it may be easier to find a replacement axle than spend a lot of time and money on your existing axle if it has problems.

If your 350 is relatively mild I would not mess with boxing the frame unless you've done other mods that weaken it. You may find you need to remove the crossmember that the stock bellhousing mounts on in order to fit the transmission under the floor.

That crossmember also provides support for the spring pivots and if you remove it I would then look at ways to add that support back in.

Those are my first thoughts.

I would definitely box the area where the engine mounts mate to the frame, maybe even the same for the tranny mounts.

Thanks for the replies.

I am wanting to have a good strong truck when I am done. Its for using as a truck.

If that cross member comes out, another one would be needed. No problem, I am able to fab something nice.

My thinking so far has been to box the front when I had the front end bodywork off for the engine swap and box the rear when I remove the bed. Then while I am back there replacing the rearend I could add a cross member, shock mounts and a trailer hitch.
That would only leave the section under the cab and I bet I could do that from the bottom. Just dont want to take the cab off right now.

As for the disc brake kit, I have not seen them for the 41 but its good to know they are the same till 55. Thanks for that!

What about the springs? What has been your experiences with them?

I sold my last '41 in 1976. Far as I can remember it was running the stock springs but that was a long time ago....

So my experience with '41 springs probably doesn't mean anything.

You may find the need to enlarge some holes and make some spacers to use the disk kits but it won't be much if any.

I'm in the process of doing the same thing that you are, except that I installed a 3" drop axle. I went and talked to a local well know chassie and street rod builder about boxing my frame for my 350 and he told me NO unless you are going to put over 400hp in that truck. I have a 350 crate motor and th350 tranny so I'm no where near that hp. I have not installed the engine or tranny as of yet but I have new stock front leaf springs, new shocks,new shackles, new spring eye bolts and new king pins along with new engine and tranny mounts installed. I just ordered the full 5 on 4 3/4 disc break conversion kit from CPP. The entire time I have been working on this project I have asked people with the same truck and the street rod builder that I know and everyone has said that this set up is fine, but I have been told that I'm nuts for leaving the straight axle in this truck. I'm trying to keep it as stock looking as possible but more reliabile.

I can relate to the "you are nuts for leaving the solid axle in the truck"

I say no, not crazy.
I had a Mustang ll in my 46 Chevy truck with a 350/350. The power rack was too twitchy at speed (yes, there is a fix for that) and it was just too wimpy for a "TRUCK" truck. Its great if the wood in the bed is varnished and you just drive it as a car, then its fine, but as a TRUCK, its too wimpy.
I know, everybody wants to clip it with this and that, truth is, that is one solid unit and its good.

That is what I was thinking with your comment on "NOT BOXING THE FRAME". (that is to say, when I am not thinking about boxing it!!)

The frames in these, especially with the solid front and rear axles has to move, flex and twist. That is why the cross members are rivited in, to allow movement. I have seen boxed frames that will crack and crack badly at certain stress joints. Backyard engineering (which I am good at!) gone bad.

Well, thats what I think, love to hear any arguments, as I will need to change my mind several times before my project is finished, if you know what I mean.

Your 3" dropped axle, did you get the steering arms dropped as well?
How much was it?
Where did you get it?
Do you have any pics of it?
Am I asking enough questions?