The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Cannister oil filter question?

I am converting the new engine (235) for my 58 Apache to full pressure oiling and I want to retain the old cannister type oil filter. My plan is to enlarge the fittings in the housing to accept the larger oil lines necessary for the increased oil volume. A Friend says he does not think the filter cartridge will handle the increased volume or pressure involved. Has anyone attempted this before and if so what were the results? Thanks, Ronnie

I've seen smaller filters handle more pressure than these old beasts make, I doubt it will be an issue. Add on the surface area of a elemnt that large, the average PSI on the element itself is relatively low. So long as the element has the perforated metal outer casing and your pressure is coming from the inside out it should be fine. In the case of the canister like I have that would mean reversing the flow so it comes in the bottom and out the top/side.

An issue that comes to mind is wether the canister lid seal can handle full pressure w/o blowing out. Once warm the oil pressures aren't so bad, but those cold startups can be fun. I've done pressure/volume conversions on smaller engines that were known to blow spin-on filters apart on a cold morning. NOT fun,...

Realisticly, you could go to a commercial truck shop/parts house and talk to them about finding a similar looking modern unit that takes modern reusable metal mesh elements and adapting it to fit your mount. A coat of paint and a re-pop Fram decal kit and you'd be set!

Thanks for your reply. I really want to keep the canister that is on the truck now because it has been decorated.
[IMG]http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/ee330/diceman50/Speedway%20Truck/DSCF0416.jpg[/IMG]

Your comments have given me a new idea though. I have seen some new cars that use cannister type filters. Perhaps I can find one of those that I can adapt. I am sure that they have been built to handle high pressure and volume. Thanks again.

I agree with your friend. Here's why:

OIL FILTER BYPASS VALVE

If you wait too long to change the oil and oil filter, there is a danger that the oil filter might become plugged. To prevent a plugged oil filter from starving the engine for lubrication, oil filters have a built-in safety device called a "bypass valve." When the differential pressure across the oil filter element exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. But when the bypass valve is open, no filtration occurs.

The bypass valve also opens when a cold engine is first started. Cold oil can be fairly thick and may not pass through the filter element very easily. So the bypass valve opens and allows the oil to go around the filter until the oil warms up and flows more easily. During this time, any contaminants that are in the crankcase may be sucked up through the oil pump and bypass the filter, causing increased engine wear and possibly engine damage. Once the oil gets warm and the bypass valve closes, oil flows through the filter and normal filtration resumes.

Just adapt the filter housing to accept the full-flow cartridge designed for the canister-type filter on the early Chevy V-8 engines. If you're worried about a clogged filter restricting the flow, it would be easy to build a bypass system using a couple of pipe fittings and a spring-loaded plunger installed in parallel to the lines to and from the filter housing. Simple physics will tell you how heavy a spring to put into the bypass valve. The canister lid gasket holds the pressure of the 235 bypass system, so there should be no issues with sealing the pressure of a full-flow filter.
Jerry

I would think the old canister should work. All of the manufacturers used canister filters for years. Probably clear up until the 70's. I can remember changing out cartridges in IH and Ford grain trucks.