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#653188 06/08/2010 5:14 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 31
R
Apprentice
Apprentice
R Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 31
Hi guys,

I have a side exhaust setup on my 50. Sometimes, I can hear the exhaust "clang" against the steel running boards. The shop said it's so tight under there, they expect some clanging.

To me, where there is a will, there is a way. Any suggestions? Is there some high temp rubber or material I can place between the exhaust and the running board that might stop this?

I could try another exhaust shop.

Steve

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
recoil. Got any pics?
A properly designed and fitted exhaust system shouldn't contact any part of the chassis/bodywork.
As I'm sure you are aware it has to be independantly mounted to allow the system to expand and contract during use,it's also to reduce noise transmission to the body.

Sounds to me it requires a little 'tweaking' to get right,it might also be due to soft rubber mounts.
Are your engine/trans mounts in good order?,excessive drivetrain movement can also exacerbate this.

In a way you've almost answered your own question,but it might be an idea to try another shop.
To "expect some clanging" sounds like your present shop are not interested in solving your dilemma.JMO


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,624
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,624
While I agreee with Jockbolter, sometimes something else is needed. I my case the exhaust pipes sit to close to my gas tank on my streetrod. Heat was my very major concern. Awyway, I purchased a length of fiberglass sleeving coated with a high temp. silicone. It is used to cover/protect hydraulic hoses on such things as robotic welders so welding sparks don't melt the hoses. I split the sleeving, wrapped the pipes and secured it with SST cable ties. Works great. I also wrapped the pipe near the brake M/C for the same reason. This might help with the banging.


Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 31
R
Apprentice
Apprentice
R Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 31
Thanks. All good info. I haven't gone under the truck yet. I agree that all I need is a tiny bit of tweaking. It doesn't clang all the time -- usually at start up. If I put my foot on one of the side pipes ever so slightly, it stops. I'll report my fix after I get her up in the air to take a peek.

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
beltfed, I agree,i've also got some clearance issues too,but of a heat nature,none of my system touches any other part of the chassis or bodywork.
I too will be installing heat shield where appropriate.

The cab of my friends 52 used to be a nightmare in the summer,he cured the problem with header wrap on the exhaust under the cab and better insulation in the cab.

Good luck recoil,let us know how you get on.


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.

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