The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 oil system

Can the oil filter system update described by "Phat" be done on a stock 1951 235 babbitt pounder. I was just getting ready to install this doner 235 in my 51 and decided I would tear it down just to see what kind of shape she was in. The rockers, valves and springs were pretty clean and looked to have been recently rebuilt and then I noticed after inspection, I had five pushrods cracked at the rocker ends, so decided on further investigation. I pulled the side cover to look at the lifters and still pretty clean. I pulled the lifters and found oil sludge and grit clogged around the lifters. It almost looked like mud. So I am going to tear her to the bare block and clean. Pistons and bore are very good shape also. I need to find out where I can get new push rods.?

You can get pushrods about anywhere. I used the accessory filter hookup points & put a modern filter on my 38. It works great.

Dear Tiny:

Thanks for the info, what would be a good oil filter adapter to use and where would you mount it on the 235. I will check with NAPA on the push rods.

This is my setup. You can order the base & filter at any parts store. About the pushrods. That family of engine is still fairly common because it's still used in a lot of farm trucks. You need to talk with someone who knows something about old chevy engines at whatever parts store you go to. As mentioned in another thread a kid with a mohawk haircut & nose ring probably won't be much help if it doesn't show up on the computer. If you don't find a source locally check the links tab above. I know Chevs of the 40s carries them.

dbs16 - try www.rockautoparts.com for the push rods.

Tiny: Do you have any notion as to how much pressure is actually flowing through that filter setup? I'm just wondering how much better that setup is as opposed to a regular canister type. I read an article in a magazine where I think they said the oil pressure at the hookup point is actually pretty low.

It would be whatever pressure the gauge is reading. It connects to the same point that the gauge does using a "T". It's a low pressure engine but any filtering is better than none.

On the filter, it's not about the pressure, it's the amount of flow that's important. Tiny's setup would be far more efficient than the original canister, as it will flow better. I did something similar on my full pressure 235. I used a canister from a full flow '61 261 to keep an original look. Also, the filters for that canister are much cheaper than the Fram canister that was on it.

Tiny:

I just finished tearing the 51 235 down to the block today. The engine is in very good shape like it had been rebuilt recently but the inside of the block had the dirtiest oil I have ever seen and felt grity like pumice hand cleaner or metal shavings and I found several balls of what felt like wax (maybe old Quaker State?). I think I will hot tank her and freshen up with a ring & Bearing Kit.

Any suggestions on where to get one?

One what? If you mean rebuild kit all of the parts sellers have overhaul packages. Kanter has a lifetime guarantee on theirs & are about the same price as the others. Good luck.