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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 | What should I be looking for when there is a knocking in the front end. It is a rotational knock faster with road speed. Is there something in the hub or a bearing? Loose king pin or tie rod. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 | does it disappear when you turn or straiten the wheel? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 | It can come or go by turning the wheel. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,742 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,742 | Look for a loose tie rod end. The steering probably wanders a little, too, doesn't it? Too much clearance on the sector gear preload in the steering box can cause a wander or a shimmy, but it would really have to be loose to get a knock. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 120 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 120 | It depends on the knock. Check these- -a big nail in a tyre -A loose or worn bearing. If it has cup-and-cone bearings, they need 33 ft-lbs of torque to preload them right- check the specs. -there may be something in the brake drum. If it increases with road speed, and out of round or out of balance wheel will cause a shimmy in the steering as above, see Jerry's comment above.
'47 Canadian RHD 1.5 ton truck
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 120 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 120 | It depends on the knock. Check these- -a big nail in a tyre -A loose or worn bearing. If it has cup-and-cone bearings, they need 33 ft-lbs of torque to preload them right- check the specs. -there may be something in the brake drum. If it increases with road speed, and out of round or out of balance wheel will cause a shimmy in the steering as above, see Jerry's comment above.
'47 Canadian RHD 1.5 ton truck
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 | It started out barely noticeable and has gotten worse. I will check the bearing nut torque. As for tie rod ends they feel tight by hand. It seems to be worse when braking or turning right like when loading the right front tire, but recently it's been doing so much more that I can't limit it to one cause. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,742 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,742 | Turning right puts more load on the outside wheel, the left one. Try removing and inspecting the left wheel bearings, both inside and outside. I suspect you're going to find some flat spots on an inner wheel bearing. They get progressively worse as the bearing deteriorates. I chased a noise like that on a Ford Explorer for two years, until it finally got loud enough to isolate the noise down to one specific bearing. Even then, I had to take the bearing apart, as the noise was caused by roughness on the inner race, under the tapered rollers! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 | I meant turning left, LOL. It sounds like a hammer hitting a piece of wood on the wheel, or a stick caught in the spokes. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 | I have the same exact problem. What was done to repair the noise?
Disciple
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 | I hear you knockin but you cant come in! :P
If it's really loud when you're turning I'd lay odds on a bearing problem. Seeing as it has gotten progressively worse you may want to have a peek before you spin a race. 1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber" 2007 Chevy Avalanche 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things. But thats just MY opinion! :P
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 4 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 4 | I had a similar problem on a car. The knock would be steady when driving straight. It would increase with speed. A left turn would increase the noise and a right turn would decrease the noise. It was a bad bearing in the right front hub. I replaced the whole hub assembly and the noise went away. It was extremely satisfying to drive down the road without a knock  | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 | I haven't dove into mine yet, between building a house, horse emergencies and funerals, its been back burnered, I'll be looking at bearings first.
Any suggestions for locating parts?
(Asking without searching in any capacity for them myself first.) | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 | Started tearing my hubs down, a started on the drivers side to see what I could see behind the drum. Bearings on this side have minimal marks or pits on them, nor do I see any scoring on the spindle. While I had the tire off, I took some time to chisel off old grease, mud and road grime. I noticed that the rod connecting the pitman arm to the drivers side spindle/hub can be rolled around a little bit with a knocking noise. So I shot some grease in all the zerks. This quitened the noise and tightened it up a little bit. As for the bearings, when the hub fell off the brakes shoes, it knocked a ball out never to be seen again, so I will need at least an inner set. Will have to see what the passenger side holds still, and hopefully the noise will be gone upon reassembly. As of now I can't determine the source of the noise. I suspect the rod I mentioned.
Wheel bearing part numbers are Outer Original 909045 New (Three letter prefix of brand)-B45 Inner Original 909046 New (Three letter prefix of brand)-B46 | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | Try NAPA for your bearing needs.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 | Yes, Napa has them, if you can pay for them. They are about 20$ higher than anyone else. On a side note, these things are expensive 80-120 a bearing inner vs. outer per side. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 173 | Update...
The noise I believe was the rod, all the bearings were in good condition. As for the lost ball, I found it a few days later, cleaned it up and reinstaled it. So far so good.
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