The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Custom Cab Horn Ring Removal

Does anyone know how the horn ring comes off on a custom cab steering wheel? I need to install my new turn signal cam and I think you push the ring inward and turn it in one direction or another. I dont want to risk breaking it 'cause they are hard to find. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Paul

Check on the back of the steering wheel's spokes, and you'll see there are recessed holes that have a small screw in them. I believe they're hex-heads, so a nut-driver will work, but it's been a while.

-Brad

1/4" nut driver is very good to get them off.

Brad, Tony, thanks. I checked my shop manual and there is no mention of how to do this. I see what you mean with the screws on the back side. Thanks again. Paul

Were you able to get it off?

Tony, I am still at work. I work 12 hr shifts and being a shade tree guy, I'll do it this weekend. I'm also replacing the heater control levers at the same time. I referred to a post about accessing the levers through the glove box area so I'm going to follow that procedure. When I finish, I'll post the results. Thanks.

The entire heater bezel assembly comes out the back of the dash. Regardless, you will have to remove the entire assembly, to replace the levers.

Yes you are right. The procedure I'm going to use is from the tech tips by Mike "Bears 63" Shea's method. He has lots of photos and walks you through the whole thing.

Well, I got the horn ring off and got into removing the steering wheel.That darn thing will not budge. Gave it a few shots of Kroil and using a puller and a few raps with a hammer didn't have any effect. What I did manage to do is mushroom the threaded end of the steering shaft.I should have left the nut threaded onto the very end to prevent this but you know what they say about hindsight.

I managed to repair the threads by using a file and straight edge to regain the correct shaft size. I ran a 1/2-20 die down and back and tried the nut...BINGO! Now back to removing the steering wheel. I studied the shop manual and noticed the puller used in the illustration has a sleeve that fits over the threaded end so you actually push against the shoulder of the shaft. I have a old cracked deep well socket that will do the trick. TO BE CONTINUED.........

I have yanked a few steering wheels in my day but this one is a real bugger. The socket was a good idea but I couldn't make it work. I took some measurements and made up a drawing for a sleeve. I had a machinist buddy make the sleeve which fit great but collapsed and distorted after a few tries with the puller. Worse yet, during the process my turn signal lever fell on the floorboard. The plastic turn signal mechanism, brittle from age, fragmented due to the blows I was giving the end of the puller. NOW I must get the wheel off. I'm having several sleeves made up and maybe I will try some carefully applied heat.

I have pulled several and never had any problems doing so. I leave the nut on the shaft with only a few threads showing on the nut. This keeps the puller shaft from running off the end of the shaft. You can also drill a 1/4" hole, about an 1/8" deep, to help keep the ball end of the puller bolt on the shaft.

My machinist friend made a sleeve out of hardened shaft material. I set up the puller and finally got the wheel off. Found out I need more than the turn signal cam. I ordered a new switch assembly and upper bearing assembly. I'm going to put it back together for the time being 'cause I need to haul shingles this weekend. I will be sure to apply some anti-seize to the shaft splines so it will be easier to remove when the parts arrive.

When you put it back together, make sure you have the copper (or brass?) horn contact ring installed correctly.

And do yourself a favor and disconnect the battery or pull the fuse when you do it! After about a hundred horn honks, my wife finally came out and said "What the hell are you doing?! Do you know what time it is?!?!?!"

Oh...um... sorry?

-Brad

Any auto parts place that rents tools will have a sterring wheel puller, If thats not an option, stick your feet deep into the firewall,grab the sterring wheel with your hands and forearms so the wheel is close to your chest and the cross bars of the wheel are on your forearms and then pull like haities, wiggle the sterring wheel,left arm, right arm, left arm and so on, (hope you ate your wheaties)

I split my lip open and loosened my front teeth by grabbing a steering wheel that had just sat loosely on the shaft in one of my project cars. Through a couple years of hot/cold temps, it worked down a little and on the third "Ooompf!!!" it came off and I rocketed it into my mouth.

Unless I put the thing on ten minutes before, I will ALWAYS use a puller from here on out.

-Brad

I finally have working turn signals. The switch I had ordered was on back order for over six weeks. That's what I get for going the cheap route. I e mailed the vendor last week and found out they had an OEM spec switch for a little more money but they had it in stock. Spent a couple of hours on the install and everything is nice and tight now. I'm ready for the state safety inspection at the end of the month.