The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Cab painting technique question (AD)

Right about now I'm not feeling very confident that I can paint the cab, mostly because of dry overspray and inexperience with modern paints.

After applying several coats of primer to my cab over the past couple weeks (and blocking in between) I have questions regarding applying the color coat for those who have painted theirs.

Where do you start and how do you progress? Do you start on the roof and work your way down or what?

My experience with the primer has led me to discover that the upper cowl and bulge just below the lower part of the windshield opening is very prone to overspray. Should that be painted first or what?

Should all the upper surfaces like the roof and cowl be painted first?

Should the back of the cab below the beltline be painted across the entire width, doing the sides after or just half from the center to the door opening at a time from the side?

I'm working with single stage urethane and an HVLP gun.

You probably don't want to hear this Woody, I know you are a lot like I am about doing all the work your self. But, lacking a good place to do my painting in, I stopped by a little body shop in a small farming town just south of me the other day. I explained my painting setup and asked what he would charge to just shoot some parts if I had the paint and had them all in primer and blocked. All they would have to do is shoot it in their booth and I'd pickit up the next day.
He said they get $75 and hour and he didn't think it would take more than an hour to shoot the parts that I was talking about.
Sooooo, maybe you could find a shop that would just shoot it for you, if you had it all blocked and masked off it shouldn't take a heck of a lot more than an hour to shoot the cab if that much.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I'm pretty confident that I can get paint down good on the hood, fenders and bed parts but boy that cab sure is intimidating and with it back down on the frame I'd have to have the whole thing moved if I went that route, but I'm not ruling it out at all. I spent 51 hours getting the cab ready for final sanding, I'd hate to screw it up now.

There is a small shop nearby and I've talked to the guy a couple times about getting the bodywork done (my first reality check) when I first got the truck. I may just slide by there today and ask. He does beautiful work including custom stuff so I know I would get a first class job.

We'll see... hopefully someone will have magic answers to my questions.

Other than that Woody, it just seems logical to start on the top and work down across the back then finish up on the cowl. If its over spray on what you’ve already shot, that you’re worried about I would think that it could be easily buffed out once she sets up. I think ya might be anxious because of all the prep work you put into it. By the time you finish the hood, fenders, bed and doors you orta be expert enough that you'll have that cab done in about 20 minutes. Let us know how it comes out for sure.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

A couple of years ago I painted a 1948 Frazer and boy is that a lot to cover. On the advice of a body and paint guy I masked and painted the top by breaking at a body line. Then masked the cured top and painted the bottom. It allowed me to set up a walkway along the car and I didn't have to worry about getting the hose in the paint etc. Also, when painting a hood off the vehicle I've had the best results setting it on end and not flat like it sits on the car/truck. The same goes with doors and other large flat panels that can collect dirt because of surface area.

Jim

Jim,

Good suggestions about the flat panels, never thought about that. I know I'm going to have to sand and polish out dust and an occasional bug but the less I have to deal with, the better I'll be.

The idea of painting the cab in two parts is something I considered but there's no natural break point in the front. The body seam at the back is ideal but it doesn't extend to the front.

Current thinking is to have a helper and run a rope high enough over the cab so I can hold it and lean over far enough to hold the gun perpendicular to the center of the roof... that's my BIG concern... I just can't lean over far enough to get to the center the way I should. My helper can move the ladder and keep the hose off the truck while I concentrate on getting down a couple good coats of color.

As far as putting the paint down without dry spots or runs, like Denny says, by the time I paint the other parts I'll be comfortable with my technique... amateurish as it may be.

Woody, be glad yer not doing a panel truck roof
my painter drapes the hose over his shoulder with it loosely attached to his belt in the back, seems to take care of that problem pretty well

Bill