Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,022 Posts1,055,381 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | |
#64831 08/25/2006 2:18 PM | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | The 54-3100 has made the transition. But I've got a concern. I've got a pronounced "growl" in the cam drive line. I need some input from some 235 guru's. Just some background information:
The engine is a 56-235 car engine. I pulled the pan, no sludge or metal residue. 848 head. Valve train the same, plenty of oil to the top, oil pressure runs just a tad under 40 cold and maintains 30-35 when hot and at 1800 RPM. Compression is 135psi across the board. No knocks or strange noises from lower end. Rocked the engine and can detect no excessive timing gear slop. I suspect that someone has gone through the engine. Haven't pulled the timing cover. Opp's!
However, I discovered that the PO had used an older distributor from a forged cam engine in this cast cam engine. Installed the correct dizzy, growl still there!
My questions are:
1. Has anybody experienced the same sort of noise and is there some way without tearing the timing cover off to analyze this condition. 2. Would you drive it or recam/timing gear set/lifters/pushrods, possibly new rockers? 4. If you've replaced the fiber gear with an aluminum cam gear, was it appreciably noisier than the original. (Am I hearing things?) 3. If recamming is the word...which cam for a T5, 3.08 diff, 29" dia tire, Fentons into 2" exhaust, Holley/Weber 2 bbl. I want to retain the low end torque and am not interested in a high revving combo. Would I be better with a stock 261 cam or a m4F?
That about sums it up. Sure hope you folks can give me some steerage. I don't relish pulling the sheet-metal/cam/pan/timing cover but also don't want to wind up with a bunch of bent valves and ruin a good engine.
Thanks in advance,
Dave | | |
#64832 08/25/2006 2:29 PM | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 240 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 240 | That is the reason for the fiber gear, quieter, the aluminum gear will be a little noisier than the fiber one. Seen a lot of the fiber gears break a tooth off and you will think it has a rod knocking.
You Learn more Listening than Talking
| | |
#64833 08/26/2006 4:39 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | If aluminum gears are not checked for run-out when installed they can be quite noisy. If they are running straight they are almost silent.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | |
#64834 08/26/2006 4:43 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | I have a customer who has put 60000 miles on a noisy aluminum gear with no problems.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | |
#64835 08/26/2006 9:54 PM | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | Thanks for the response Dave...I was leaning in that direction....no slop, or residue in pan, no apparent wear on old forged distributor, no change in pitch with cast iron dizzy gear, visual of cam dist. drive gear showed no apparent wear markings. The engine runs sweet, good oil pressure, no flat spots....couldn't ask for any smoother without a total rebuild.
I'll go with that for now.....am looking for another 235 to build as a spare just in case. I plan on putting some road miles on this project and haven't had much luck locating a quality rebuilt long block. Got any suggestions?
Once again, thanks for your response.
Dave | | |
| |