The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop battery ground attachment question

Currently my 59 Apache battery is grounded directly to the block. I am thinking of grounding it as it was originally, which was a metal ground strap to the firewall and then ground the firewall to the block using a copper ground strap. I like this original look better but wanted to see what folks thought of this method of grounding. It seems like the direct ground should be better, but would there be any problems, etc doing it the old way?

Every time you add another connection to the series that connects the engine to the battery, you have the possibility of looseness, corrosion, and loss of voltage. 6 volt system's have NO extra voltage to lose, so by adding two potential trouble spots to the circuit, you're taking some chances with reliability for the sake of originality. Keeping a 6 volt system working well under the best of circumstances is challenging. Adding a couple of potential resistance points isn't something I'd do unless it was on a Concours-competition show truck!
Jerry

Edit: OOPS! just noticed the year! Your 12 volt system is more forgiving, but be sure to keep the connections clean and tight anyway!
Jerry

Thanks for the tip. I wire brushed the connections and used dielectric grease at each of the fittings. I also sprayed the ground straps with anti-corrosion spray. I'll keep a watch on it, though.

Unless I'm reading your post wrong, it appears that with your current grounding configuration, your chassis/frame is not at battery ground (negative potential), just the block. The original configuration grounds (or makes the same potential) the block and frame to the negative potential of the battery. I'm guessing since your lights and accessories work, that somewhere in your current configuration the block is grounded to the chassis (check the bell-housing or transmission).

I misdescribed my current configuration. My battery is connected directly to the block. The frame is grounded directly to the bell housing. I have replaced the ground strap to the bell housing with a new copper strap and was wanting to replace the ground strap to the block with an original looking metal braided ground strap to the frame, as was originally done.

I've been using the original TF grounds for decades: batt to firewall / footboard to starter bolt, no ground to the frame, never had any problems - just need to keep things clean and tight, including engine and cab mounts

remembered a picture of the original engine ground location on the footboard, not to the frame

Bill

Yep. Actually you're right about that location. Thanks for sending me the pic. I'm still a bit of a newbie on these matters, but that does look like the location where my strap bolts on.