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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,194 Posts1,057,263 Members48,466 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 59 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 59 | OK, so this is probably the first time for this 1950 1/2 ton to have the tranny removed. I have the slider-sleave back and have the connection exposed. Should it just slide off or is there some bolts that need to be removed. I'm trying to get the tranny out by the book, through the floorboard. I see two little bolts but by the book it makes it sound like it should just slide off if jacked up? Any help? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | Slide off what? I have never removed one from the top through the cab. Out the bottom allows much more room. If you have the bell off of the back of the transmission, you have to disconnect the U-joint held by four bolts and the shift linkage along with anything else connected to transmission, like the speedometer cable. You might have to remove the crossmemeber to allow the drive shaft to fall below the transmission and allow enough room to take the transmission out. After the above is done, unbolt it and pull it back until the input shaft clears the bell housing, then lower it. If you are going out through the top, it seems that you would have to remove the seat and the floor covering and roll it out the door of the cab. I like the bottom better. Good luck!
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 59 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 59 | Up and out would work fine as the floor covering is removed. The problem is getting enough room around the drive shaft and tranny. I think I will remover the crossmember and drop it. Thanks | | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 132 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 132 | So Joe, should I consider removing the trans out of my 48 by dropping it?
I might have to take it out.
It began making big noises in second and third gears. First I'll see if there's enough oil in it before taking it out. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | You can certainly tell if it's better for you to take it out through the top or not. Having removed my from the bottom several times, I just see it as a clean, clear way to do it without having to remove the seat and what ever else is in the way, in addition to tearing something inside the cab up. I've done mine whithout using a transmission jack, although I'll tell you a jack makes the job easier. You slide the tranny back to clear the bellhousing and lower her to the bottom and roll it out from under the cab.
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | GoCougs, I also have always removed the 3-speed transmission from below; however, I congratulate you for having apparently read the instructions in the Shop Manual (for removal of the three speed transmission). Are you using the two transmission "guide pins" (long bolts with their heads cut off) described in the Shop Manual? Whether you raise the transmission through the hole in the floor or drop the transmission, the guide pins are quite helpful during removal and during installation. | | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 132 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 132 | I was wondering what the "guide pins" were, because no pictures in the shop manual. Thanks for the bolt idea.
I can go get some long bolts before attempting this removal, and cut the heads off.
How long should the bolts be? and how much should be threaded at the end?
This is gonna be fun!
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 | I think 4" or so will work. The trick is that you want the trans supported while the input shaft is in the clutch disc, so its less likely to twist the center section. It's not as useful on dis-assembly, but the pins will really help on re-assembly.
regards, Leon | | |
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