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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 136 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 136 | Tried to pull the drums off of a rearend I had bought, but am not having any luck. I am just wondering if you just pound on them till they come loose, or does someone have a trick to it? Thanks | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | A rear end? If you'd be more specific it would help. Some have screws. | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 136 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 136 | It's from a 59 1/2 ton, and I didn't see any screws or anything. | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | You may need to back the adjusters off. There's also a good chance that there's some rust buldup of the hub that's preventing the drum from comming off easily. Try giving the drum a shot of a good penetrant like B'Laster or Kroil around the hub pilot as well as each wheel stud hole. Let it soak, then rap the drum between the studs to break up any rust there. Then rap the drum around the outside diameter towards the wheel side (brass hammer preferred). The drum whould come free. You may need to give it some "persuasion" by adding some light to medium presure using a small prybar between the drum and backing plate, appying presure as you rap the drum.. Be gentle doing that, as you do not want to damage the backing plate. I have removed many drums with this method.
Bill Burmeister | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 136 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 136 | Thanks Longbox, I will try that. I'm not going to save the whole rear, just the center section, so if I have to I will "persuade" it a little. Thanks again. | | | | Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 | Make sure the adjusters are backed off. Take a torch and heat the drum on the face between the wheel studs and the outside diameter of the drum. Heat evenly around the drum--you do not need to get the drum extremely hot-just hot enough that you cannot stand your hand on it comfortably. Try to heat the drum only--avoid heating the center hub or wheel studs.
Lightly tap on the drum with a hammer while you are heating it. You will notice a different tone when the drum is no longer siezed to the hub. Wearing gloves, pull the drum off the hub. | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 5 New Guy | New Guy Joined: May 2010 Posts: 5 | I have a '51 1 ton and I am trying to get the front drums off. There are two screws in the front of the drums. Do they need to come out? I tried the adjusters but they are too rusted and won't move. The truck sat for a while before I rescued it. Any help would be great. | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 | Yes the screws need to come off , try Hotrods way and heating as Racecarl said also if you can spin them you can try and as your'e pulling on the drum give it a little turn one way than the other some times that will get the drum to slide past the shoes
Pete
Last edited by Pete52; 05/11/2010 1:07 PM.
| | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 5 New Guy | New Guy Joined: May 2010 Posts: 5 | Thanks. I used PB Blaster and a lot of hammer. They finally broke free this morning and I was able to get them off. Thanks for the help. | | |
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