The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Devilbiss in line filter and regulator....HAR 602

Please check the link below. Anyone have anything pro/ con to say about this product? Thanks for your input.

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/docs/serv_bull/HAR-602%20(SB-6-180-A).pdf

http://www.google.com/products/cata...;resnum=3&ved=0CC4Q8wIwAg#ps-sellers

You just can't get air too clean and too dry. I have 3 compressors that feed into one of these for the shop air. http://www.google.com/products/cata...;resnum=4&ved=0CD8Q8wIwAw#ps-sellers

And then I have one of these for the paint gun.

http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.yahoo.net/dev-dad500.html?productid=dev-dad500&channelid=BCOME

A desiccant dryer is the best for final drying before the spray gun. I use the same system for a plasma cutter and it is almost unbelievable how much it extends the life of the consumables.

Painting and other work requires water removal. All methods mentioned here are good
BUT
Why not use a water cooled aftercooler and preheat your hot water? About 50% of compressor input power is wasted as heat.
You can have a water separator to dump the water or let it drop out in the receiver (drain OFTEN) and then go with smaller refrigeration dryer or desicant BOTH of which use power to operate.
Dan Bentler

Thanks for the info. and suggestions guys. Lookin' to go a little cheaper than what you have suggested, the product I am looking at is less than $150.00. I wish to put the money in the truck where ever possible.

Hank,
I was probably in the same boat as you a few years ago when I started painting. Like the others say, ya can't have clean enough air, especially with the newer urethane paints that seem to fisheye on ya if you look at it wrong.
I too didn't want to spend a couple grand on air treatment for a little hobby spraying on the side, so after a lot of trial and error, (more error really), I'm finally able to get pretty consistent results. I ran a little over 50' of 1/2" copper out of my compressor with two drop legs with ball valves towards the end of the run. I then ran a filter just like what you're considering, only mine was from Sharpe. At the gun I run one of those Devilbiss whirlwind ball filters. I tried it without the final filter but had mixed results, they really do seem to help, especially with removing those last remaining oil particles, which is the big problem. I replace the ball filter pretty regularly, they're cheap enough, and drain everything else daily if I'm using it. One last thought is to make sure the air hose you use for painting is clean. I keep a separate one just for painting, and before using it for the first time, I flushed it with denatured alcohol to make sure it was clean. Don't know if it's recommended to do that, but I figured there could be contaminants in the hose from manufacturing.
It sounds like a lot of work, but when you're spending $300-$400 a gallon for paint, boo boo's get expensive.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I like the little ball filters as well. Local Northern tool has the Sharpe filter simular to this one and you have used it with good results. One of my guns from back in the day is a Sharpe product as well. Always liked the end result it gave me. I will keep that in mind, just a little more partial to Devilbiss.
Hank