The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun 1966 C-30 thermostat housing

hey im still trying to figure out what motor is in my truck, im a total newb to these trucks, and this thing has definitely been to war (people mickymousing things left and right for 40 years to keep it running instead of doing it right) any ways, the thermostat housing and heater lines just dont seem right. . .maybe its the galvanized pipes screwed into the water pump, i dont know. does any one have any pictures of theirs they can post so at least i know what it sould look like? there is some kind of fitting or adapter between the manafold and the thermo housing with tubes comming out of it. i have a couple pictures

http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/...ew&current=SDC14368.jpg&newest=1

http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/...ew&current=SDC14369.jpg&newest=1

if it is supposed to be like that, is it possible that it might help me identify the motor? thanks!

There is a number on the right side of the block on a flat boss clean it off and post the number someone can possiable ID it for you. It's on the front of the engine just below the head. In pic. #10 there is a number clean it off and post it it's in plain site but cant read it as it is rusty and greasy. take a wire brush and some degresser to clean it. Maybe a 265, 283 or 327cu.
62Blue
Don

I'd say it's either a 283 or 327, but like Don said you need to get the numbers off it to make a positive ID. As for that thermostat housing, I have never seen that kind of a setup before. Hopefully someone else has seen that before and can enlighten us.

I'll guess 283. The valve covers are not 327.

the exhaust manifolds are from a 65-67 corvette 327, those numbers i got. the engine ID tag does not make any sense, it has an extra letter in it and 2 of the numbers in the middle seem to be stamped over. replacement motor maybe. . . i have no clue. the id tag beginning is CE7P278 then there are the numbers that look like they were over laped, or re stamped; it may be 10, or 67 followed by 03C C. are there any tricks to viewing the date code in the rear of the motor without pulling it out? im not even exactly sure where im supposed to be looking. i tried using a mirror to see where the date code is; i thought i saw it, but it turned out to be the transmission.

It looks like your heads have an accessory bolt hole. I couldn't make out any other casting marks in the pictures. I think it might be an early 350 with a even earlier intake manifold. If you pop a valve cover off you can get the casting number and be sure of the heads. Your thermostat housing spacer looks like some part off a marine application where they use water cooled exhaust manifolds or something. If the engine is a marine application you might have a stout bottom end to work with. Get some casting numbers off the block and heads and you'll solve the mystery.

SimS

just took the carb off today and the casting number on the intake manifold say its a 66' 283. is there any possibility that the intake manifold is from a different size motor? im going to get the numbers from the heads 2maro if it doesnt rain.

Yes. Most maybe all small block intakes will interchange until the middle 80's.

Just looking at the pictures I doubt you have an original configuration so don't be surprised at anything you find.

What is great about Gen I small blocks is also what can make them a pain to ID. I built a 350 for a '63 C10 one time and it sported a 327 intake and 283 valve covers. So just because the intake says '66 283 casting numbers, don't trust it to ID the block. Even 283 or 327 heads could be sitting on a 350 block. That's why the only definite answer will be to get the casting numbers off the back of the block. Besides, it may be worth pulling the motor just to inspect that bottem end since you said in the other post that you will be going through the top end.

man. . . .starting to get my hopes up here and there because i think i might be able to tell what motor it is. lol. im going to try and get the bottom end without pulling the motor. granted it would be much easier, but i dont have a hoist- nor do i know anyone around with one. and i have a feeling im going to need to save as much as possible for gas to and from the store for having the wrong parts! why would any one make several different sizes of motor with totally interchangeable parts? stupid chevy. . . .god i love this truck! hopefully by this weekend i will have gotten the heads off and can see the casting numbers!

Well first they aren't totally interchangeable and second the easy parts swapping is usually considered an advantage...

You can measure bore and stroke to figure out what it is. You can also read the casting numbers on the block without removing the motor. Its easier with the motor out, but not impossible.

Check Mortec.com for casting numbers.

I see your dilemma with pulling the motor. Well, once you pull the heads it will be much easier to see those casting numbers on the block. As to the interchangeable parts... that is an advantage in that it makes parts cheaper and easier to find.

assuming its a 283, are there any awsome (and by awsome i really mean cheep) combos as far as other size/year motor parts? stuff i could get at a junk yard. and id really like to do a cam. ive heard that r.v. cams are good to use, but ive always just bought them off summit.

Using your definition of awsome I'd say your best junk yard purchase would be a complete running Chevy 350. Easy swap and usually the cheapest Chevy V-8 to work on.

283 and 327 have some cache that increases desirability and prices. Used 400's can be problematic. A 350 for a few hundred with a cheap refresh is likely to your cheapest approach to reliable performance.

If you have a 283 or 327 now you may be able to sell it for enough to finance much of the swap.

Assuming it's a 283, there are tons of things available. It's just a typical first generation small block. Look around and you will find lots of stuff, including cams, are quite easy to find. 283's are also excellent engines. I have always found them to be quite durable and have plenty of power for anything I have needed.

OldSub hit Submit before me... but he is correct. 350's are a dime a dozen and parts are even cheaper than for a 283. You probably would be better off from a cost perspective to slapping in a 350.

i swear, whoever was monkeying around with this truck prior to me should have their butt kicked up and down! i got the exhaust manifolds off, and the intake manifold off, plus some other goodies all in about an hour. Why? Nothing was torqued down! a slight twist of the wrench and i could get the rest of the bolt out with my fingers! im probably going to stick with the motor that is in there- 350's are to common for my taste. i love doing the unthinkable with the unimaginable! unless i find a serious flaw with the block or something. whatever it is; even with 2 year old oil, gas and no water, and a really bad missfire and smoking like puff the magic dragon and a cracked rear axle carrier bearing- it still had some major balls! i figure with a few new parts, a rebuild and someone that is willing to take the time to do it right, it will be a great truck! have to work tomorrow, but hopefully it will only be a half day and i can start taking the heads off. cant wait to see what the other numbers tell me! oh! and as for the numbers on the heads them selfs are they only on the passenger side head? have a great weekend!

Brian you could have a odd block in 262,267,305 and 307 cu. in. engine blocks. There is one more but I very seriously think it could be and that is a 302 cu. in. That engine was used only in some HP. cars. Without the block number on the back left side it is a guess as to what it is. Someone may just put a spare parts engine together. Do you have a VIN. number that you can read clearly? I have the latest ID Guide out and do not see anything on the boss numbers you have posted. I have one more question does your block have a oil filter on the left side.
62Blue
Don

Brian;

So what's the casting number on the heads? The suspense is killing us!

SimS

yes the filter is on the left side (thats driver side right? its on the driver side) i figured out that the numbers were wrong as soon as i started looking, i spent the better part of 4 hrs a day for a weak trying to figure them out. just need a parts organizer for the lifters and rockers and it will be time to pull the head-today!!!

ok i finaly got the numbers! heads are 8846818 (the 1 could be a 7, i couldnt quite tell) and the number on the back of the block- da duh duh da! 3959512. im going to see what i can find right now, but if you already know what the numbers are id appreciate it!

ok so this is a little odd- the block casting number; from what i found; is a 62-63 327 with a 2bolt main.

the date code on the head is D217 (April 21, 1967) but i cant find anything for the number

Small journal early 327.

As old motors go its a relatively desirable one. I believe the 512 casting was used in trucks and as a replacement so it may be original to the truck or been put in later. Google would likely confirm or deny that.

Good news on the engine. A 327 will make a great unit for your truck. Hmmm... What the heck are those heads? But with that date code it sounds like they go with the 327. Good luck.

SimS

whats the easiest way to find the cc's of the heads? i have been searching for the casting number high and low but i still cant find anything. im going to put new pistons and rings in, i have the cc's for the cylinders, but i need the cc's of the heads so i can be sure the compression is right for pump gas. trying to get a little more power out of it! oh and does any one know what the optimum compression ratio is for using 92 octane? im thinking in the range of 9.2:1.