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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,151 Posts1,056,999 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 6 |
Hi,
New to the forum. I just bought a 1945 loadmaster 1-1/2 ton. I am suppose to be the third owner. The second had it for some time in his barn and gave up on the idea of using it.
It is in very nice condition with light surface rust in areas. A lot of the paint still exists and the front grill is half paint half surface rust. I understand the war years trucks had painted grills. The engine is a 235 and runs nice. That leads me to the first question and that is the spark plugs are the small barrel type requiring a 5/8 socket for removal. Has this head been fitted with plugs or helicoils or whatever to take the smaller plug?? I've had them out and they fit nicely.
Second, I had some early spark problems but resolved that with cleaning the points. While looking at that issue I notice two wires comming out of the distributor with both going to a "polarity reversal" switch mounted on the starter. What's the deal with that??
Finally, what oil should I use in it?
I will post some pics this weekend.
Tim (troyaero) | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Troy1950, welcome, there were no stock 235/261 heads that I'm aware of that were machined for taper seat spark plugs [5/8" hex], by the way both the washer type and taper seat plugs are 14 mm thread. The polarity reversal switch was a device they came up with to limit metal transfer from one side of the points to the other, every time the engine is started the electrical polarity travelling through the coil/points was reversed. As to the oil, you will get many opinions, the technology of the day was 30 wt. for summer or warm climates, 20 wt. for winter or colder climates. Modern oils are much better lubricants, and most reports I have read say 10/30 is the best lubricant for most applications. However of late most oils have had the zinc level lowered to the extreme, zinc is needed to help lubricate our old flat tappet engines, so you might consider the new oils that have shown up on the market specifically for flat tappet engines, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 46 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 46 | Hi Tim,
Looking forward to seeing your pictures. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 | Welcome to the bolt! Toss some pictures up when ya can, we all like to live vicariously through other peoples projects.  I'll leave the ignition Q to others, but oil is an easy one. Like 3B says, Zinc is your friend, yet modern oils are low in Zinc. However, many of your comercial grade diesel engine oils still have fair levels of zinc. Probably the easiest to find would be Shell Rotella T. I run straight 30WT in my old beastie year round, but that's mostly because it's the one that'always in stock. 1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber" 2007 Chevy Avalanche 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things. But thats just MY opinion! :P
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