The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Bought some used headers...

The guy that sold them to me said they've never been used and that he picked them up at a Swap Meet. I don't know, if you can tell in the pictures, but they've been used. I'm no that thick.

They have a few dents and the surface that contacts with the header is not quite flush, but I'm gonna give him a 100 bucks. He already gave them to me and said to et him the cash "whenever". You guys think 100 bucks is worth it?

No noticeable cracks, just a few dents. Some Hi-Temp spray can paint and they could pass for new.

Also, any idea what company they are? Not Stovebolt.... maybe Headman?

I have another question, but I'll save that oen for when I'm closer to putting them on... here's a pic.

[img]http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c157/DiscoDanny/Truck/headers.jpg[/img]

I mean, the HEAD. The surface that bolts up to the head

Clifford long tube headers maybe? If they are Clifford headers I've seen used ones go for up to $200. New they run $339. They look the same as the clifford headers on their website. 250 clifford headers

those kind of remind me of the ones i scored off of EBay...

they already had the clearance dent in the number one pipe..it made me pretty happy.

paid 30-some for the auction, then another 30-some for shipping.

i think they're worth as much as you're willing to pay..

if nothing else, bolt them on, and if you find anything really wrong with them, be like "hey...this didn't work.." and use it to go down in price, if you should be so inclined.

thats what i'd do.

but, bolt 'em on, and enjoy that sweet 6 sound.

sound clips and videos are ALWAYS welcomed. lol.

.later days.
.sam.

JC Whitney use to sell them for $179 according to a four year old catalog that I have. Have no idea if that is still the case. Looks like a lot of dents for $100, but that's my opinion. Mine didn't have a dent and didn't need one. I bought mine used, but still in the box about fifteen years ago. The guy had bought them to put on his lowered Chevy II project, but because they are made to fit the 250 and 292, they were much too long and almost touched the ground.
By that, I assume you are referring to the surfacing of the weld on the inside of the flange. A lot of headers are that way so that they don't cut through the weld.

I have two suggestions that will save you a lot of headaches and frustration.
250/292 heads came with two locating pins. One on each end. Inboard of each of those is a threaded stud with a fine thread nut. All the other manifold fasteners were bolts. The pins are threaded in and can be removed. Replace those and all the bolts with studs.
The header flanges are not very thick and will warp easily and leak.
The stock manifold gasket will not work.
Most people here will tell you to get a Felpro header gasket. I recommend the cheepest one piece header gasket you can find. I tried a $30 felpro and it lasted one week. What ever gasket you choose, do NOT overtighten it. I will leak for sure.
Holding the two header pieces, the gasket, and the intake against the engine and starting the bolts is a juggling act. The studs make the assembly very easy and helps with the gasket sealing.

There's a few companies making the long tubes. Besides Hedman and Clifford, Dynomax is another one and there's a P one. Pacesetter maybe?
Anyways, if you ever plan on lowering your truck, the long tubes most likely will be problematic. I've not yet installed the front air spring suspension so with the current static lowering, I can't even get in my own driveway. Occasionally they scrape on speed bumps and stuff. Something to think about. For about $150 more you can get the cast iron shorties that will last much longer.
And definitely take Richard's advice about the studs. It's frustrating as heck positioning everything otherwise.

Thanks for the replies! Yes they are a tad bit long but I have no current plans of slamming the truck to the ground.

As for the studs, sounds worth it too me! I do have a problem though...

You see instead of studs they use bolts. These bolts have sort of an "oval shape" washer (very ehavy duty) that grabs onto the "tabs" of both the intake and exhaust manifolds and holds them against the head when tightened up.

Now, my problem is that at the front tube on my header, the "tab" is shorter than the one on the intake manifold so threfore this "heavy duty oval washer" would be crooked. Any suggestions? Did I maybe miss out on a piece of hardware in this header kit?

Anytime you change things from stock, you can count on having to modify something to get things to fit and work properly.
Those oval shaped pieces will have to be massaged to fit correctly. File or grind down the underside to compensate for different thickness of the two manifolds. If memory serves, there are two different sizes of those clamping pieces. Four are the ones you describe. Two of them are about 3/4" longer and the hole is off-center. With my Clifford intake, I'm using six of the shorter style because the manifold is fatter all around. When I first put the headers on, I still had the stock intake and I don't recall what combination of pieces fit at that time.
That brings up the studs. I may not have explained that very well. There are eight threaded holes on the manifold surface of the head. The first one is in front of #1 exhaust tube. It has a locator pin in it that stands up about 3/8". Soak it with penetrating oil for a couple of days and thread it out with a real good pair of vice-gripes. Same with the one behind #6 exhaust. The second hole between #1 exhaust and #1 intake should have a factory installed stud in it. The same with the second hole from the other end of the head. For whatever reason a lot of the head rebuilders remove them and do not replace. The other four holes used bolts. You want to end up with eight studs IMO for the best results. The end studs just need a good fat flat washer.

I was in no hurry to put the headers on. Every time I stopped by a wrecking yard, I would look for a 250 and usually would find a couple studs and hardware.

In this photo there is not one nut holding the manifolds in place. They are just sitting on the studs. Even the rockers are just sitting there. After getting the head on, I was anxious to get a look at what was to come.
It isn't a great picture, but you can see the stud in the last hole.
[img]http://www.home.earthlink.net/~roadruner/MyEngine.jpg[/img]

If you're wondering about the rockers, take a look at the valve cover. I cut the corner open and added a section. You would never notice it, without it being pointed out.

So the guide pins DO thread out? Cool. Cool. I felt a bit insecure about not bolting the very ends of the manifold (or headers) down. That should hel keep thjem flush too. I'll definetly be doing that, and I'll be on look out for the rest of those bolts and accompany.