| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (HandyAndy, Hotrod Lincoln, baldeagle, Jon G, TexasA&M48Truck, MickeyP, cmayna, 1955 1 Series),
72
guests, and
7
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,022 Posts1,055,352 Members48,420 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 194 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 194 | 52 GMC, 228 Engine, original guage shows about 200 degrees after warming up. Where should I plumb up another guage to verify what the original guage is reading?
The original guage does not completely return to the bottom of the scale when the engine is cold. Could the needle be bent slightly? Engine has a new 160 degree thermostat in it. Can I remove the block drain cock and temporarily put another guage in to check the original. Should I use a mechanical guage or an electric one with a sending unit? I would like to have both guages operating at the same time in order to compare readings. Engine is completly rebuilt, block and head were boiled out, no leaks, no cracks, everything new.
If I can verify that the engine is not running hot, I would probably just live with the original guage.
Any comments or suggestion appreciated.
Arlyn :confused: | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | just get a dairy or candy thermometer, pop the rad cap, and dunk it in - easiest check and as accurate as the OEM gauges
Bill | | |
| |
| |