The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Harmonic Balancer was the culprit, now to fix it.

I was hearing a bad noise from the front of my 1957 235 (car). It's all stock. Turns out the harmonic balancer had worked itself loose and wallowed itself out. They key is a snug fit, but no longer tight. I THINK my crankshaft is still ok, or usable.
I want to try to put a new harmonic balancer on the end and see if it will press on and work. I hope this works, as it's much better than replacing the old crank. I just had the engine rebuilt and it has less than 2000 miles on it.

I remember previously a "friend" broke my old balancer. It was then I learned that the 55-57 235s had 2 versions of harmonic balancers. I know this because I bought the wrong one. Does anyone know the difference in these two balancers?

I have read several ideas on how to fix this, from drilling a hole in the end of the crank and putting a bolt in to finding a repair sleeve made for worn harmonic balancers.

Does anyone know if a company produces NEW harmonic balancers for these 235s. I think a new balancer would have a better chance of pressing on and staying on.

I'd also like suggestions on what to do about the key. It's so close to being snug, but i can push it in with my finger rather than gently tap it in. The key itself doesn't hold the balancer on, the press fit does that. They key only keeps it from sliding.

I'm hoping someone produces these balancers, or if not, that someone has one somewhere and can shed some light on the 2 versions.

Thanks,
Brandon

Good news- - - - -you found the problem! That balancer just didn't look right when we were running the engine in the shop. I'd suggest a drill and tap job to keep the new balancer in place even if the press fit on the crankshaft snout has gotten a bit loose, and a healthy dose of green LocTite on the crank snout as you install the replacement balancer. Unless thr keyway in the crankshaft is really sloppy, the LocTite will stabilize the key, also. Also, by threading the crankshaft, you can use a balancer installer instead of hammering the new one on. I've got the necessary tooling to do the job, if you need a little help with the drill/tap/install process. The same bolt and washer that is used on a small block V-8 can be used on the stovebolt engine with a little tinkering.

Call Jackie at Internal Engine Parts Warehouse on Foster Avenue to see if a new or reconditioned balancer is still available for the 235 engine. Good luck, and keep in touch!
Jerry

I wonder why it came loose in the first place. Could the balancer be cracked?

Just a comment but I think the sleeves that you read about go on the outside surface of the balancer shaft to mate properly with the seal. They have nothing to do with the fit on the crankshaft.

I got my new one from the "damper doctor" however the quality was not good as the seal surface was rough and .018" out of round. I had to remachine and polish.

I'm using a new 250-type of balancer, modified to install on a 235/261 by Steve of BUFFALO ENTERPRISES, 25625 Dahl Road, Arlington, WA, 98223
(360) 652-7684, Steve does not have a website; you need to call him.

I also have drilled and tapped the crankshaft to use a SBC bolt to draw on the pulley.

Hoyt

Thanks for the responses.
Jerry, the machine shop guy that I took the car to said that he may cover the job when we looked at it yesterday. If that changes, I'll definitely give you a call, and thanks again for the offer.
I suppose the crank must be removed to get a proper hole drilled in the crank??

Brandon

If you have room in front of the engine, you can drill it in the car. The crackshaft is pretty easy drilling, just be sure to center the hole and keep it straight.

Joe