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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,154 Posts1,056,863 Members48,456 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,554 | http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2663317270101947398ZtrfMYhttp://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2586544430101947398aKCQhuMy question, does anyone have any suggestions on how to repair the damage in the first photo. If you can't see it the cab bottom is rusted through in the area around those 3 countersunk screws, this is the part that bolts the cab together and has the block of wood sandwiched in between. I was thinking of welding a plate over it to reinforce it but didn't quite know how to handle the screws. Is there a possibility of putting a brass plate under it and just weld up the holes and any other thin spots. I included the other picture to give you a better idea of the location. By the way both sides need this same repair. Dave 1941 Chevy"First rebuild - complete!"Follow the story in the DITY1941 GMC resting peacefully 1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete 1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration 1941 Plymouth stock complete 1941 GMC COE in restoration processRead his Project Journal1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
| | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 142 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2008 Posts: 142 | Hi Dave, Pictures are hard to see what it is your talking about. Let me see if I understand your question. Are you referring to the three screws that join the rear of the cab to the front of the cab that are drilled through that wooden block? And if so, is the metal split at the joint? If memory serves me correct, they are sandwiched/laminated-overlapped at that part just above the wooden blocks? How far are you to removing the entire cab? It may be easier to get a good look at it, less the chassis from underneath? Dose it appear to be a stress crack, or rust-out? Are the screws loose, wood rotted, joint seperating?
I can provide you photos, let me know. Sorry, I have no cabs that are split apart at this time, but one that is clean.
Dale | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,554 | There is rust out near the 3 screws in the picture. Yes it is where the rear and front cab come together with the wooden block in between with the 3 screws going through and holding everything together. the rear cab part on top is the one with the rust out. there is no connection between the front and rear except the wooden block. I had the cab totally unbolted ready to remove and most people thought I should repair with it bolted to the frame so I rebolted it down. The wood does not appear rotted but I'm going to replace anyway.Screws are tight but will need to be cut to be removed. Hope that clears things up. Dave 1941 Chevy"First rebuild - complete!"Follow the story in the DITY1941 GMC resting peacefully 1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete 1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration 1941 Plymouth stock complete 1941 GMC COE in restoration processRead his Project Journal1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
| | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 142 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2008 Posts: 142 | Sounds like a Major Major job. If using a patch from a donor cab, or if removal of those three screws and welding/bolting a patch, could very well affect the alignments of the cab to the frame, thereby causing door, rocker panel, front fenders to cab and running board alignment problems. Not sure why they made the joint like that. Could be for cab flexibility over rough terrain? For me, it would be like a Rubik's Cube on reassembly. Just my thoughts. For a metal expert, may be no problem at all. Dale | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 305 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 305 | you have to pull it all apart back it with copper or brass and weld them up or find a pach out of another truck good luck with that one he he weldind up is best thing i had to do both sides of my cab and replace the wood its cheep fron jim carters
ya I know a few rednecks.Thay all drive chevys to, Proud member of the Old Dominion Stovebolt Society AND A MARINE trucks range from 1942 1/2 ton to 1965 fire engine
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 305 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 305 | will send u pic of my repairs
ya I know a few rednecks.Thay all drive chevys to, Proud member of the Old Dominion Stovebolt Society AND A MARINE trucks range from 1942 1/2 ton to 1965 fire engine
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,554 | that sounds good, thanks, Dave 1941 Chevy"First rebuild - complete!"Follow the story in the DITY1941 GMC resting peacefully 1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete 1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration 1941 Plymouth stock complete 1941 GMC COE in restoration processRead his Project Journal1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
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