The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Carb Linkage, I need HELP

I decided to finally get rid of the leaky dual, dual barrel carburetors(an edmunds setup) for the more traditional dual rochester single barrels. Now I am stuck on linkage. :confused: I am using a fenton intake manifold, dual rochesters, and a fenton header.

The pedal had been changed already to a floor mounted pull cable pedal, like a lokar pedal it looks like mine . So my cable pulls, but the rochesters need an upward push. The problems continue, I can't run the current cable to the original engine mounting for a bell crank that would make push into pull, (it puts a kink in the cable, also that mount has a bolt with its head broken off in it). The next problem is that the headers interfere with any rod pushing up from the mount, unless it zigs madly about (which seems like it would lead to problems). Finally I get 1.25 inches of cable pull and the carburetors need at least 1.5 inches of push. Any suggestions? Should I start searching for a stock pedal assembly? The only idea I have is to mount a bell crank to the heat plate of the intake manifold, reverse the carburetors so the linkage is on the fender side and pray it works. Has anyone done anything like this? I am a young teacher, so any advice from some of you older and more experienced
mechanics would be greatly appreciated.
T

Welcome to the Stovebolt Page! There's plenty of help here. Here's what I believe you need to do. Others can also offer their opinion.

What you want to do can be done. If I understand, you need to secure the housing of the cable below the carb so when you push on the pedal, the cable will extend from the housing and push the carb throttle arm up. Finding a place to secure the cable without impairing the cable's ability to function is your first step. Just study it and I'll bet you can figure somethig out!

Good luck!

Joe

Personally, I cannot fathom the use of a cable from the footfeet, but to each his own.

The other problem is relatively simple:

Visualize a child's "see-saw". When one child goes up, the other goes down. Also visualize a 110 pound mom on one end and a 55 pound child on the other. The fulcrum is adjusted closer to the mom to equalize the effective weight; but also mom's vertical travel will be less than the childs, because of the distance from each to the fulcrum.

Using the theory of the preceding paragraph, fabricate a bracket to bolt somewhere in the vacinity of the carburetors (maybe from the front mounting bolt of one to the rear of the other). Mount the cable housing to the bracket. Fashion a "stud" (the "see-saw" fulcrum) to attach to the bracket, and a rotating "see-saw" lever to mount over the stud. The arm on the carburetor side should be longer than the arm on the footfeed side. This length difference can be adjusted to turn the 1 1/4 inch travel into 1 1/2 inch travel.

Now as far as keeping the Rochesters from leaking, you might pose that question on either a "magic" forum or a "religeous" forum.

Jon.

Oh.... right the see saw effect. Try a bellcrank! I dunno if the aftermarket intake has the stud "pivot point" for one of these so you might be working with a welder on that one!

I hope your Rochesters are the Monojet models...... I officially DESPISE the Model B.

Oh, sorry. you already knew what a bellcrank is. Anyway... sounds like you'll be relocating that original!

I thought of another idea but it would be the most jerry-rigged idea ever so I won't even mention it.

Well... it would involve moving the cable PASSED the carbs and around an eye hook. Yup... jerry-rigged.