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#637139 04/13/2010 12:21 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 20
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 20
Greetings!
I was wondering if you guys could take a look at the photo here (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WZZc9V7ZTDdTMxeDyHgcvQ?feat=directlink you can zoom the photo a bit to see it closer) and provide any advice? I'm mainly interested in making sure it is wired correctly and that it is functional. Here's a couple questions:
1. Any idea who made this and if I can get a spec sheet or otherwise? The label on it wipes right off! I tried to wipe away the dirt but the label came right with it.
2. It has terminals B, A, F. Any idea what those are? I can speculate but...

I did fire the truck up this weekend and noticed that the voltage at the battery would continue to rise as I raised RPMs. I think we got it up into the 15 or 16v range before I laid off. Maybe the "volt adj" shouldn't be set to max smile

Ah, the truck is a '59 Viking 4100 but the motor is a GMC 270...I believe from the same era. It does still have the generator; hasn't been converted to an alternator.

Thanks!
--Denney

Last edited by dliptak; 04/13/2010 12:22 AM.

1958 Chevrolet Viking 60
Assortment of photos
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 586
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
G Offline
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 586
Not sure who made it, but I agree that the adjuster (lower knob) looks maxed out.Turn it down CCW and see if you can get between 13.7 to 14.2 volts measured with a good volt meter at about 1,500 rpm.


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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,746
B = Battery
A = Armature
F = Field

If the Field wire is shorted to ground, the generator voltage will increase without limit as the speed increases. Take the cover off that regulator and see if the points behind the F terminal are stuck together. Once they're free to move, decreasing the spring tension will lower the regulated voltage. That one's some type of off-the-wall aftermarket regulator- - - - -pitch it and get an original-equipment type would be the best choice.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 20
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 20
Thanks guys!
This is a great help. I got to looking last night on RockAuto and the OEM replacement appears to have the same size, mounting and terminals as my funky unit. So it looks like it won't be terribly difficult to fall back to original. Going to check and make sure this one is connected correctly and see if the field points are stuck; if this one can work for now, there are other things to be replaced smile

Thanks again!
--Denney


1958 Chevrolet Viking 60
Assortment of photos
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
That was a high dollar regulator in it's day. If you can adjust it like Gtow say's I would use it.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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