The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Timing help on a 61 with a 235

Any advice on setting the timing on 61 with a 235? Just got through doing some cleanup and restoration work on the engine and am having some trouble getting it to start. It'll only start after I pull on the choke, but only after about 5-10 seconds of cranking. After it starts, I have to keep the choke on for a few minutes after that also. Even when it warms up, if I quickly accelerate, the engine will seem to bog. It this a timing issue? During the restoration work, I've adjusted the valves, install the rochester b carb, and install a pcv valve. Also, what does the timing mark look like on the flywheel look like. There doesn't seem to be a mark.

Also, the truck had a monojet carb on it when I first got it. I replaced it with a rebuilt Rochester B carb I got from Pace. According to the shop manual, I'm supposed to gently bottom-out the needle, then turn back 1.5-2 turns, which I did. Any other carb adjustment suggestions?

"bogging" on accelleration could indeed be a timing issue. As for the timing mark, not sure about a '61, but earlier versions used a steel ball, referred to as the "BB".

But first, set the points. If using a dwell meter, set to 28 - 35 degrees. If using feeler guages, .016" for used points, .019" for new points. Then disconnect the vacuum line at the vacuum advance unit and plug the hose going to the carb. Start the engine and let it idle, connect your timing light to the #1 plug (closest to the radiator) and point the light at the hole in the bellhousing just above the starter. Since your engine is running your timing should be in the ballpark. Loosen the distributor and rotate it around until the ball lines up with the pointer. Tighten the distributor down and give it a try. I like to time a 'bolt more advanced than the book says, they run better. As long as it doesn't ping under load, you're o.k.

Good luck, and have fun!!

waldo's timing instructions are very nicely described.

As far as adjusting the carburetor is concerned, I like to use a vacuum gauge (everybody should have one) that can be connected to the wiper-motor hose-fitting on the intake manifold. (I also connect a tachometer) Set the idle speed to the tachometer reading RPM that you want (or, set the idle speed by ear), then adjust the mixture screw to maximum vacuum, which should also be the maximum RPM reading (as you move the mixture needle in and out).

another source for a vacuum gauge

For the timing mark, the factory shop manual says there's a steel ball for a 216, and a timing mark for a 235. I slowly turned the engine to take a look at what the timing mark looks like, before I fired the timing light at it, and guess what? No timing mark or steel ball! Now what?

is the flywheel clean? on my engines i couldnt see the marks either. i took the clutch/flywheel cover off and cleaned what i could see and rotated it and cleaned that part until it went all the way around and showed up clean. find the marks and make them visible. i like to take a tooth pick and some white paint and paint the U/C and polish the ball which will look like a BB when done. when your back up on top things are much easier to see. also to find it locate #1 wire on the dist. and turn it(the engine) until the rotor points to it. you should see it or be close seeing it in the window.

Are you using the hole above the starter to look for the timing marks? There's also a hole on the driver's side of the bellhousing, but that one won't line up with anything when the #1 cylinder is firing.
Jerry

I'm looking at the hole above the starter, where the timing pointer is.

To get in the ballpark with the flywheel position, remove the valve cover and watch the valve action as you turn the engine over by hand. (Clockwise from the front) On either cylinder #1 or #6, as the exhaust valve closes and the intake begins to open, the ball should be visible through the hole. It might be necessary to clean that part of the flywheel by removing the dust cover from the bottom of the bellhousing and giving the front of the flywheel a vigorous scrubdown with a wire brush.
Jerry