The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk '41/'46 crank-out windshield rebuild: tips? FAQ?

I've spent all evening doing searches through these forums and cannot find much on '41 thru '46 crank out windshield rebuilding. Or even removal tips for rusted in windshield frames. I'm suspecting a lot of folks don't use the crank out feature, but it sure appeals to me and I'm headed that way.

Anyone know of a thread, FAQ, tech tip, etc., from someone who has gone through this? Outside of soaking around the frame, I'm at a loss as to where to begin. Thanks, Dennis Odessa/Ritzville, WA

Did you find this one in the TECH TIPS?

No. I missed that. It's a big help, although I think I'll still look around for more first-hand reports from those that have done this. The crank-up mechanism's restoration is as important to me as this article's discussion of frame/glass repair.

I've always liked crank-out windshields but never owned one until now. Actually, I can't yet say I own one because mine is so stuck in place. But I'll get there.

Thanks again, Dennis

I did mine and just be aware that it will pretty much never be perfectly weather tight like a regular windshield. I LOVE driving line with it cranked open!!!

Hi dbt,

The tech tips is new to me too. I have a way to deal with the windshield connecting bars that internally retain the two windshield halves together, (see link for illustrative purpose only)

http://www.oldchevytrucks.biz/34_46/full.asp?page=135

Rather than welding and patching, I have been successful more than once, by drilling out the screws that will not budge, at this point, the three-hole brackets will be off as well. Then one side or the other will separate with light heat, lots and lots of soak time, (weeks) Kroll and/or PB Blaster and with light tapping on the outside of the frame, (wooden hammer) effectively pulling the two half’s apart. I have even busted out the glass into a 33 gallon trash can (Safety Glasses and Leather Gloves) to assist in the pulling, tugging, tapping for oil penetration etc.

Once you have successfully separated the two halves, invariably the windshield connecting bars will come out of either the drivers or passenger side of the frame, leaving one or both protruding. If protruding, you then have some meat to place it into a good vice, and have the ability to wiggle, pull, tap, light heat etc.

For the windshield connecting bars that will not budge, if protruding, cut it close to the center channel with either a hack saw or air cutter wheel, leaving about 1/8th of an inch exposed. (this is my secret) Some may have split right at the center point of the windshield channel. Whatever is exposed and left hanging out of the channel, use a fine file to de-bur any boogers and sharp edges. You may now use a undersized punch and drive the windshield connecting bars deeper into the channel. It was at this point that I decided it was either sink or swim. It has worked on many windshields that I have taken apart.

To determine the depth of your punching/driving of the old connecting bars, a new one that can be purchased aftermarket, and you may use it as your go/no gauge.

As an addendum, one half may be too rusty, split, buckled and have oversized weather-strip channel. But now, you only need one side, and may be able to find used or NOS.
After taking a few apart, I have been able to re-mate halves from two different parts trucks.

Hope this helps.
Dale

Look under Tech tips / restoration / windows / windshield crank repair by Kips 41

Thanks. GOOD information and I feel much more optimistic now. Dennis

For what it's worth, I rebuilt a windshield regulator on mine following the Tech Tip. Frankly, it was pretty easy. My truck had no regulator in it when I bought it but I found one from another 'Bolter for $40 I think it was. I planned on using it as a core and sending it to Chev's of the 40's or Jim Carters. But since the stainless strip was not broken...nothing was broken just rusted up. Mine was rusted solid but still tapped apart fairly easily. I wire wheels each of the part thoroughly and put it back together as described in the Tech Tip. I lubed the mechanism with white molybdenum grease. SInce I was able to get it completely clean I didn't paint it It looked too good! So I just wiped it down with WD-40 and it works great; completely smoothly.

Did you guys notice the factory drain hole in each bottom corner of the opening and hoses? That's a clue that you're gonna get wet. Those holes should be about half inch to handle even light rain showers. I fixed my crank out assy by installing a NOS unit that I got on a horse trade deal. The tough part is the windshield/glass job, it will eat you up and I don't want to do it again. other options are to glue/seal that sucker in place, the cowl vent will still capture a lot of air. Also a buddy of mine tossed the whole mess and V butted some new glass that fills the intire opening, looks pretty good.

Ahhhh....... a little water in the face never hurt anyone !! *g*
I love having the Crank Out window - lots of comments at shows.

I'm in the same boat with a frozen frame. My glass is glued to the cab with some kind of strip of metal "not original" holding center together. I know when I try to pry the glass off it's going to break. I saw the repro frames at Jim Carters and they do look very good. My crank-out and hinges are is still in the truck and in good shape.

dbt,

Welcome to the "Stovebolt"!

On my list yet is to restore my crank-out windshield so that it is leak tight. In my situation, someone along the way installed a rubber gasket that truly does not conform to the original mating steel window frame. I believe that these windows originaly sealed. Off the show room floor I'm convinced at that time that these windows worked properly. The challenge is to figure out how to find the proper gasket that will frame out and seal these windshields. I've heard the Steele Rubber Products, 6180 E. NC 150 HWY, Denver, NC 28037 is a reputable supplier of classic rubber parts. When I get around to focusing on that part of my restoration I'll probably chose them. (www.steelerubber.com)

Nothing is better than driving down the road the road with that windshield cranked out in the Summertime and feeling the true air conditioning from a '40's era "Stovebolt"!!