Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,032 Posts1,055,517 Members48,425 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | Hello, I did a search on adjusting the steering box on my 1953 3100. I found a article from "Oly" that goes in specific detail on how to adjust the lash. But sadly it does not say how to identify if it is a Saginaw or not. I sent a PM to "Oly" and a picture to his personal email but it bounced back and the Pm wasn't answered. How many different types of steering boxes were used in 1953? Hi Oly, Thanks for posting the tech tip on adjusting the Saginaw Box, It looks precise and easy to follow. I sent this to your on file email account @intercds.com and it came back so I cant sent the pic through Stovebolt that I know of so I am sending you this PM. I only have one question. How can I identify if I have a Saginaw? I want to adjust my steering box but don't know what type it is? I have a 1953 3100 Chevy that wanders a little. I have already taken up all the play I could by loosening the set nut and screwing in the adjustment screw. It looks to me like I have to take the lash out on the bottom as you describe, but I don't want to go through all these instructions if I have the wrong type. If you don't mind can you look at this picture, it is not a shot of the whole thing but just a general shot I took while putting it back together. Can you identify if it is a Saginaw from that shot? Thanks for your help. John Flicker Picture of under hood, top of steering box
Last edited by 53John3100; 03/27/2010 7:05 PM. Reason: Added name of picture
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | Right under my name it just said Flicker, I found out how to edit it and renamed it. It is the top of the steering box, if that doesn't help I will take a fresh picture and repost. Thanks for the help. Please advise. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | John,
What is the picture number? You link_s both give us your Flickr home page.
Did you look at the unit at the link I gave above?
By the way, your truck's color-combination looks good.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | Use the link right under my thanks in the original TOP posting please: Not the main link.. I don't know how to make those go away.
Thanks for your help. John <Flicker - Picture of under hood, top of steering box.>
<this is a link to the picture labeled Carb3 but shows the top of the steering steering box, look up top at the start of the post. It is there. Sorry about my Flicker knowledge.. I don't have much. .>
Last edited by 53John3100; 03/27/2010 7:47 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | Thank you for the nice words about the color, it is suspose to be an 1953 original color but I am not sure the truck line used it, I can only recall seeing cars using it but I though it looked good. ... I am having hell adding the pictures to flicker, sorry. Yes the schemetic looks like the same steering box. Is that a Saginaw? I can use "Oly's" adjustemnt tech tip and the info on your sheet you provided together and I think I should stop it searching for ditches from one side to the other.
Thanks for your help. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Just a quick clarification on GM steering boxes, all GM vehicles after '41 use a Saginaw Recirculating Steering Box (Passenger started in '40, Truck in '41).
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | Thanks Both of you.
Longbox, beautiful truck! Very Nice. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Now just where at Walmart did you find that scale Tim???? I've looked everywhere for a light scale. All of the scales that I found at my Walmart, or the other dozen sporting goods stores are for big fish. I did find a Rapala Digital 15 lb. scale but it's not that great and it was expensive. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Well Denny, I was able to find one a few years ago that wasn't strictly for big fish. I think they were stocked for guys like me that have never landed a big fish!
Fred | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Denny,
I got the small fish scale about 7 years ago. I look for it now during fishing season but have not seen it again. I think I paid less than $2 for it. I had never adjusted the steering gear; but, I followed the Shop Manual instructions and it was not difficult. The steering was VASTLY improved. I wish I had done this many years ago.
John,
You might as well try this adjustment before you remove your assembly. At best, you might get an acceptable improvement. At worst, you will learn a technique you will have to do after rebuilding the steering box.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | Will do, I will try the adjustment without the scale before I remove it. I just reinstalled it and I wish I knew it was as bad as it was before I put it together. When taking the truck apart for the restoration I thought the 4 bolts on top of the steering box would let me drop the box and leave the column so it all could be painted when the truck was painted at the same time so I am afraid I actually did the damage myself by taking the bottom apart and not knowing what I was doing and then putting it back together when I could not separate the box from the column that was before I found this website or bought a factory assembly manual. I am sure I did not put it back together correctly as far as the adjustment goes. (Yes, I admit I am sure I must have screwed it up, being honest goes with getting older I guess.) Thanks for all the responses. TCLEDERMAN> I searched Google and all the sporting stores I could find online and I can't find a scale with increments that small. Is there a name of the manufacturer and model number on the back of it? I could probably go back to Good-Guys in Pleasanton California again today (Sunday) but I must have walked 30 miles yesterday all through the swap meet and looking at all the hundreds of all the neat old cars and trucks and I am still sore today… uggg… I could probably find something at the swap meet if I go back. I'll do a search and see if I can find it if you can find a name on it? I do see a few old brass fish scales on EBay, Which might be an option... I will do the adjustment and give it my best shot, but then again I don't want to go too tight and have the steering seize when driving (if that is even possible?) God I love this site and I bet someone rebuilding a Rambler or a Pinto doesn't have anywhere the knowledge that we all have to tap here. Thanks so much guys! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Finding a scale locally would save on shipping, but, here are a few on-line sources: Amazon Fish-shaped scale (might be out of stock) | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Those are pretty basic boxes. Maybe if you could describe the problem we could help you some. I don't think they are easily damaged but you can get things out of place when putting them back together. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | I saw that one on the Amazon link, it is only in metric and not pounds and when I did the cross reference it said 2.5 lbs was 1133.xxxx kg... so I am not sure that one will go high enough, I am not good with metric. Thanks I will keep looking. The other one looks good though and I might consider that one. Maybe I will take notice how much tourqe 2.5 lbs is when i redo mine so it might help someone else down the road.
As far as the problem, I have about 180 degrees play in the wheel. From center to left 90 degrees (about) and then back again to the right. If this is a clue of any type when I adjusted the set screw by backing off on the set nut on the side of the box and screwing the screw in until almost the threads where just barely grabbing the screw so it didn't drop inside (the screw screwed in a lot) the play got better. That's where I am at right now. I did the search and have the adjustment instructions and I also have the exploded view provided to me in this post. I guess next thing to do is get on the creeper and see if I can take the bottom lock nut off again and adjust the lash. That's where I am at. Also while we are at it, because I will have to pull the steering wheel off to center it once I get all done all with the adjustment. All the wires in the whole truck were replaced with a new harness, except the horn wire from the brass ring on the top of the steering wheel to mid steering post where it come out of the top to plug into the horn plug, can that be replaced by pulling the top bearing out? Or will I ruin it and have to order a new bearing in order to replace the horn wire. The horn works and I "black taped" the wire where it comes out of the column, but it bugs me. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 |
Last edited by tclederman; 03/28/2010 11:34 PM. Reason: added brand name
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | Thanks Tim,
any suggestions on the problem? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Where your horn wire lead exits the mast jacket you can use a couple of layers of shrink tubing or you can do it right and use the woven wire loom like the original one was from the factory. Horn wire lead: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/123129399/large The mast jacket bushing/horn contact at the top of the column is usually a one shot deal. In other words once you remove it you usually have to replace it. So if the lead is in bad shape I would suggest adding a length to the stub you have, covering it with shrink tubing and pushing the extra back up inside of the jacket. The wire loom is available from most of the aftermarket vendors. A little strip of copper house wiring flattened out will server as the clip to hold the loom in place. Here are a bunch of pictures, which are usually better than the illustrations in the manual at seeing what your up against in the steering box: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/steering&page=all Your slop in the steering wheel, i.e. 180° movement, is a lash adjustment for the sector. If you can’t take it up with the screw than in all likely hood you have some badly worn parts in the steering box and I would conceder rebuilding it, having it rebuilt or at least getting a different used steering box. If the worm adjustment on the bottom of the box is loose, then your being able to pull the steering wheel up and down in line with the steering shaft would indicate this. Don’t make to big of a thing about the scale adjustment. All they’re saying is there should be a little preload on the bearings. As long as you take out the slop and there are no tight spots throughout the full range of movement then you should be just fine. And no matter what you do, don’t use grease in the steering box, there are literally dozens of better lubricants suggested on this site if you do a little searching. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | OK, Thanks again Denny. I think shrink tube is a good idea and will convert to that, I now understand that the scale was just to insure that there wasn't too much pre load on the bearing so things aren't grinding in there every time the wheel gets turned and it really isn't all that "scientific". Your pics also gave me a better understanding of how it was engineered. Thanks for your help once again. If all goes well, it will actually possible to take it for a drive next weekend. It is far from being done, but I can see the garage floor and the 3rd bedroom floor again as I slowly am putting parts back on the truck and I seem to be running out of the big stuff! Also the money spent is dwindling down every month, another good thing. Thanks once again to all. John | | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 | I saw that one on the Amazon link, it is only in metric and not pounds and when I did the cross reference it said 2.5 lbs was 1133.xxxx kg... so I am not sure that one will go high enough, I am not good with metric. Thanks I will keep looking. The other one looks good though and I might consider that one. Maybe I will take notice how much tourqe 2.5 lbs is when i redo mine so it might help someone else down the road.
As far as the problem, I have about 180 degrees play in the wheel. From center to left 90 degrees (about) and then back again to the right. If this is a clue of any type when I adjusted the set screw by backing off on the set nut on the side of the box and screwing the screw in until almost the threads where just barely grabbing the screw so it didn't drop inside (the screw screwed in a lot) the play got better. That's where I am at right now. I did the search and have the adjustment instructions and I also have the exploded view provided to me in this post. I guess next thing to do is get on the creeper and see if I can take the bottom lock nut off again and adjust the lash. That's where I am at. Also while we are at it, because I will have to pull the steering wheel off to center it once I get all done all with the adjustment. All the wires in the whole truck were replaced with a new harness, except the horn wire from the brass ring on the top of the steering wheel to mid steering post where it come out of the top to plug into the horn plug, can that be replaced by pulling the top bearing out? Or will I ruin it and have to order a new bearing in order to replace the horn wire. The horn works and I "black taped" the wire where it comes out of the column, but it bugs me. 1 lb. = 2.2046 kg JB
1 1951 Chev Panel with a 350 small block, automatic tranny. 1 2004 Chev 2500 HD pickup... stock 1 1950 Chev 5 window pickup; 261 c.i. engine, 4 on the floor.
With lots of time and money, any Stovebolt can be restored.
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