The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop fuel pump change on a 216

A buddy called tonight saying he had removed his fuel pump on his 215 but could not put the new one on. Something about it not lining up. Almost like the plunger was not going where it should.
I have not changed one on a 6 but did read the shop manual and it seems straight forward. Is there something he should know like a tip or trick which is not in the manual?

Bill,

I think if the cam lobe is in the max lift position, getting the pump lever up and over, then compressed is a tough gig! If you didn't know this, you might think something was wrong.

If your friend could tap the engine over a touch, maybe it would get to the heel of the lobe and be easier to install. Sometimes long bolts help align the whole mess at first...these are replaced with the standard bolts after everything is in place.

Stuart

Stuart is right. If the lobe is in the wrong position it can be a bear to get the bolts in. Another thing to check is he may be trying to put a later model chevy 6 fuel pump on & the fuel lines don't match up.
I had to replace the pump on my 38. I went to the local parts jobber I normally use to see if they had one. Their book didn't go back to 38. He brought out the earliest chevy 6 fuel pump he had. It would bolt up but the fuel lines were positioned different. Instead of running parallel to the block they ran on an angle. I took the top off of the new pump turned it so the fuel lines ran parallel to the block and it fit the old pump bottom perfectly. My fuel pump is now a hybrid with a "new" top & original bottom.

It,s also possible to be trying to put it on upside down.

Thanks all. He got the pump from NAPA and it is identical to the original. I think that maybe he finds it difficult because he has to compress the plunger against the cam to put it in. The old pump's plunger may have been just flopping. I think I'll have to go see him. He has had this truck for 3 years and has driven it a total of 5 miles since. Now he is inspired so I guess I should encourage him.

Yep! My money is on the spring tention causing the pump to be in a bind when being installed.

Spring tension, meaning the plunger is tighter than the old one?

I've put a couple of fuel pumps on 216 CID engines recently. The guys are right about the eccentric lobe being in the "high" position. What I do is just stick my finger in the hole and rotate the engine with the fan until I feel the low spot.

I'm sure some genius knows what the distributor rotor position would be with the fuel pump lobe in the lowest position.

Going to help him tomorrow night. Thanks all for the tips.

Checked out his problem, felt the high side of the cam lobe where the plunger would go. Turned the motor over a bit and the low side came around. Pump fit in really easily and now it works fine. Thanks for the help.

First thing to keep in mind with the fuel pump on a Chev straight six.....(regarless of size) is that the fule pumps were ALL basicly the same from 1937 thru 1974..... The only diff. being the "clocking" of the inlet and outlet ports for the fuel lines...../ On all the earlier style pumps.. it is a simple matter of removing the screws and doing a quick re-clock to align the inlet/outlet ports into their proper position.... on a later (crimped body) pump? you would have to re-position the fuel lines them selves....

Michael

formerly;
Northwest Classic
Parts and restoration

49 Chev 2-ton
65 chev 35ft school bus