The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks IS MY BALL JOINT BROKEN?

1962 1/2 ton - My lower ball joint shaft rotates 360 degrees... when I try and tighten the nut, the whole shaft turns. I've had people say just put pressure on it until it seats on the spindle, etc. but then again half the people say ITS BROKE, and it's not supposed to rotate 360 degrees, and that I need to replace it $$$$$$. Does anybody know if these older Ball Joints are supposed to rotate like this? or am I going to have to replace them.

No, it's not broken. Just jack it up in a way that puts pressure on the tapered shaft, and you can tighten the nut without a problem. Watch the cotter pin hole, and be sure you're tightening the nut until the castellated nut lines up with the hole aas you tighten. Never loosen the nut to make the hole align before inserting the cotter pin.
Jerry

If it has been loose & turning in the spindle It has probably wallered out the hole in the spindle. The only way to be completely safe is to replace the ball joint & spindle. You probably could tighten it up by putting pressure on it. The parts for that model are expensive & rare.

NO, I had to use a pickle fork to break it loose (replacing spindle, going disk) but I think maybe While smacking on it first and trying to press it out, I might have screwed up the threads on the Castle nut or something. I can't get the nut on even with the spindle off and holding the shaft with vise grips. Replacing the nut and hoping that works - JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE IT'S SUPPOSED TO ROTATE (SPIN) 360 degrees , seems stange, but I've Goggled it, and it seems like others are having the same issue.

Yes it will turn under that condition. It is a ball & socket. Put pressure to seat the taper again & that might hold it. If you dont have a torch avail. you might be able to split the nut. Chase the threads with a die or thread chaser & use a new nut.

If you've been hammering on the threaded part of the tapered shaft (even on the end) you've probably bulged the thread to the point the nut won't install properly. You might have to run a die onto the ball joint thread as well as replacing the nut. Next time hammer on the boss of the spindle where the taper fits. Hit it HARD with a big hammer there, but never hammer on the nut or the tapered stud. By distorting the taper slightly, it will pop the stud out of the female taper. I've been removing ball joints and tie rod ends this way for over 40 years, and virtually never damage a thread.
Jerry

That's how I do it, too, with only a few exeptions.

Well, after reading the Manual, I discovered that with the ball joint separated and with the nut on, the torque required to turn the stud in the assembly should be at least 2lbs. and not more than 15 lbs. Mine must be way gone because I can't even get the nut on without turning the joint :-( oh well, what's another $300 for ball joints

Yup it's better to just change them out, way better to play it safe then sorry . . .you'd hate to lose a front wheel on your vintage GM truck . . .

Mike