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I started taking the doors off of my 1955 cab. I got 4 of 6 bolts out of the thing and the last two are just spinning. It's like they broke loose as the others did then started spinning. I assume that because the truck sat outside for so long that the welds on the nuts holding them broke. Before I take my angle grinder to the lower door hinge does anyone have a suggestion?

a 55 2nd? you can get at the back via the kick panel slot, or if it's the deep ones, you can get at them from the firewall side with the fenders off .... should be able to get an open end wrench on or a pair of visegrips if necessary - a pain, but they can be removed - inside ones you may have to break the cage off the nut

Bill

I was worried about the bolts that are in the doors. I never thought of looking in the kick panel. I guess I have a new place to look this evening.

ahhh, the bolts in the doors all attach to the same plate, not individual nuts - the first ones came out because there were others holding it in place, when you got to the last one the whole plate is turning - that's a problem that can only be fixed by cutting the door open if you don't fix that plate the hinge [and door] can't be reinstalled

Bill

No, the plates not spinning. There's still two bolts in it. Unless it's so rusty the plate cracked which I guess is possible on this truck!

Both of the bolts had broken welds. I had to cut a hole in the door to get at them then one twisted off and I had to take my angle grinder to the other. Finally got the door off though!

I was working on my doors today as well!
I got the upper 2 on the body side loose, on the lower (inside) body side I got one loose, one doesn't have enough steel holding the captive nut so why bother? The outer one just won't budge. I doused all with WD-40 and am trying again tomorrow. I'll have my ratchet in one hand and the die grinder in the other.
I got 1 or 2 out of the lower door but not all.
So far as removing the bolts I would advise using a 9/16" 6 point socket, the 12 point just rounds the bolt off.

I left the inner most bolt on the top hinge alone as the captive nut area is not accessable unless you cut a hole for it.
I have a pickup cab sitting on saw horses (it has no fenders attached to it) so I can see what's there.
I belive messing with that inner most bolt on that upper hinge is asking for trouble if you don't REALLY have to.
I got my door off but left the upper hinge attached to the body; I'll remove it (if I HAVE to) once I get the fender off.
I used Map Gas to heat the bolt up and when it was hot I applied bee's wax to the bolt, it wicked right in there and I removed the bolt witout damage.
Remember these bolts are Nat'l Fine Thread and are made in such a way as to resist turning (you'll see what I mean when you get that sucker outta there) so it will be a tough turn and take a while to get it out.

Sorry for the delay in replying. I was out of the country. I got the bolts out of the troublesome door. I had to cut a neat hole in the outer (rusty) door skin to get to it. The captive bolts were rusted and the welds holding them in place had busted. I wound up going after them with my angle grinder. I actually went down the middli of one bolt and split the nut in half to get it off. Do you know if they make a complete outer door skin or just the smaller one for the lower panel?