The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay draining battery

I've had a problem keeping charge on battery. I tracked it down to a voltage regulator, replaced that, then had problem with new carb. 6 weeks later when carb's back on track again (have 3 kids under 5...) I start her up. All's fine 'til next day and battery's dead again. Wife says leaving key in ignition has caused it before. I have a hard time believing that, but her memory's a lot better than mine. Ignition is original since owned (8 yrs): original '52 3100 Deluxe cab 216. Its driving me nuts instead of my driving it.

Since you've owned your truck for 8 years, this is a recent problem, right? Did you work on or replace anything just before the problem appeared? If so, then the problem just might be with the new part or wiring to or around it. New carb? Did you hook the electric choke to a switched 12 volts? If not, it will drain the battery. A good way to find your current drain is to disconnect one side of your battery. Put a light bulb in series with the battery cable and battery post. I use a cheap test light (looks like an ice pick with a lamp in the handle) with one test lead. After hooking it up if you've got a current drain the lamp will glow. Start pulling fuses one at a time until the lamp goes dark. When that happens, you have found the circuit that is giving you problems.

Hi Beltfed,
Its drained at different times through the years. Unfortunately she doesn't get driven as often as I'd like. Less now than ever due to no time. Leading to the recent problem, nothing had been replaced. Its still a 6V system - no accessories. Advance Auto has been excellent at helping find drains, which is what lead me to the voltage regulator - it was physically hot to the touch turned off. I replaced it. I haven't thought to touch it again. After changing that (and rebuilding the carb - manual choke), she ran great. I drove her two different times that day. The next morning the battery was dead. I've got the test light you're describing (plus higher quality). I'll give it a try. Is there any water in the theory that a key in ignition could cause a drain? It is the original ignition system. We're only the 3rd owner.

I leave the key in mine all the time, never had a drain problem with that.

There is no connection between the key and any electricity. All the key does is align the locking tumblers so the key cylinder will turn. It is completely separated from the electrical contacts within the switch.

Thanks, as I expected there's no connection. I did notice after starting it with a freshly charged battery that it barely showed charging on the gauge while idling and no accessories on. Here's the new concern: when I touched the brakes or turned on the lights the needle jumped decidedly to "charge", not discharge. I can't believe that's right, but I'll admit I don't work with this positive grounded sytem like I do my '69 camaro. Is the gauge wired backwards?

The needle should go to charge side of the gauge when there is a draw of electrical power. It should be less noticeable when your battery is fully charged.

If it a chevy it is negative grownd not pos.

New mechanical regulators must be polarised to your system, many are dual polarity and can be used on either but once installed you must touch between BAT and ARM momentarly to polarise your system or you may run into problems with sticking contacts etc, if your battery drained thru your new Reg you may have damaged it.. also check to be sure your brake lights aren't staying on thats a common thing with that foot switch and would lead to the Intermitant problem.

Thanks everyone. It's starting fine right now. It is a Chevy and it is positive grounded (negative from battery goes to starter). We're the third owner (for past 8 years), previous owner had it for 18 in NW New Mexico. I think he made it work using true shadetree mechanics. I did touch between the BAT and ARM contacts as directed when I installed the new regulator. I'm confused: when electrical power is drawn in every other car I've had the needle is pulled towards discharge, not charge. It it because this system (truck) has a generator, not an alternator?

Chevy is supposed to have Negative ground. That's why your ammeter is working backwards. Swap the battery cables, and re-polarize the generator. No other circuits besides the generator should be involved. Most recently-manufactured regulators will work with either Pos or Neg ground.
Jerry