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#62859 07/10/2006 5:25 AM | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | Exactly what kind of bolts and nuts are supposed to be in the middle hole of the shackle plates - the bolt and nut that actually hold the two flat pieces together between the spring and the frame? :confused: I know it has to be a carriage bolt, but what kind of nut? Is it a castle nut with a cotter pin or some other kind? Obviously some saftey feature needs to be used here. :rolleyes: All of these questions pertain to my 37 1/2 ton pick up. Thanks for the help! Joe 
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | |
#62860 07/10/2006 9:41 AM | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | I believe just a lock washer and a normal nut.
Check your service manual for pictures to be sure.
I suppose you could use a locknut too if it bothered you. | | |
#62861 07/10/2006 9:48 AM | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | I don't know about the '37 but the ADs used a lock washer. Of course that was before plastic insert lock nuts were invented. They sell them at Ace Hdwe. | | |
#62862 07/10/2006 2:44 PM | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 | carraige bolt (good grade) fits in the square hole, washer, nyloc.
you could use 242/271 locktite as an added security. using a castlated nut requires you to cross drill the grade 5 or 8 bolt.
Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe
Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
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#62863 07/10/2006 5:20 PM | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | The replacements for my '55 came with nyloc nuts.
Bill Burmeister
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#62864 07/10/2006 6:19 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Joe,
Although this isn't a true load bearing application, I would try to find a carriage bolt of at least grade 5. Hardware store variety are grade 2, great for the back yard fence.
Grade 5 carriage bolts are available, and they have the SAE markings on the head. You might have to look around for these.
Stuart | | |
#62865 07/10/2006 8:13 PM | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | The thing that bothers me is the ability of any one with a 9/16" wrench being able to quickly remove the nut from the bolt at any time, anywhere and causing you to find yourself down the road with a major problem on your hands not to mention the damage that could be done. In my case, the rear shackles, especially, are very visable. I would like to come up with a more secure way of "locking" the carriage bolt and nut on the truck, without a major production, but with a way that would obviously discourage anyone from even considering messing with the truck. Maybe it's not that big of a deal, but it sure is easy to remove that nut from that bolt, fast!! I'm thinking in terms of a cotter pin, a hitch pin or, best of all, a push on retainer clip, like is used on rear wheel drums, to hold the nut on and not be very visable. Joe
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | |
#62866 07/10/2006 8:27 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Joe,
If you clean the fastener and the nut and apply red Loctite, the fastener will break before the nut can be removed. Without heating before removal, your assembly is literally one piece.
You might be fixating on something that would never occur to a prankster or vandal.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 89 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 89 | I know this is an old thread but, why does this need to be a carriage bolt? My 47 had gr5 3/8" bolts in it....Since I have it apart, should I switch it to carriage bolts? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 | Just tack weld the nut to the bolt. If it ever needs to be replaced, you're going to scrap it anyway.
"Is it still paranoia if people really are out to get me?"
LOL!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | I know this is an old thread but, why does this need to be a carriage bolt? My 47 had gr5 3/8" bolts in it....Since I have it apart, should I switch it to carriage bolts? If you have access to the bolt head and the head does not interfere with another part, usually moving, you do not need the carriage bolt. Use a standard grade 5 or better bolt and locking nut or threadlocker compound.
Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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