The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Shackle Bolts and Nuts

Exactly what kind of bolts and nuts are supposed to be in the middle hole of the shackle plates - the bolt and nut that actually hold the two flat pieces together between the spring and the frame? :confused: I know it has to be a carriage bolt, but what kind of nut? Is it a castle nut with a cotter pin or some other kind? Obviously some saftey feature needs to be used here. :rolleyes:

All of these questions pertain to my 37 1/2 ton pick up. Thanks for the help!

Joe

I believe just a lock washer and a normal nut.
Check your service manual for pictures to be sure.
I suppose you could use a locknut too if it bothered you.

I don't know about the '37 but the ADs used a lock washer. Of course that was before plastic insert lock nuts were invented. They sell them at Ace Hdwe.

carraige bolt (good grade) fits in the square hole, washer, nyloc.

you could use 242/271 locktite as an added security. using a castlated nut requires you to cross drill the grade 5 or 8 bolt.

The replacements for my '55 came with nyloc nuts.

Joe,

Although this isn't a true load bearing application, I would try to find a carriage bolt of at least grade 5. Hardware store variety are grade 2, great for the back yard fence.

Grade 5 carriage bolts are available, and they have the SAE markings on the head. You might have to look around for these.

Stuart

The thing that bothers me is the ability of any one with a 9/16" wrench being able to quickly remove the nut from the bolt at any time, anywhere and causing you to find yourself down the road with a major problem on your hands not to mention the damage that could be done. In my case, the rear shackles, especially, are very visable.

I would like to come up with a more secure way of "locking" the carriage bolt and nut on the truck, without a major production, but with a way that would obviously discourage anyone from even considering messing with the truck.

Maybe it's not that big of a deal, but it sure is easy to remove that nut from that bolt, fast!! I'm thinking in terms of a cotter pin, a hitch pin or, best of all, a push on retainer clip, like is used on rear wheel drums, to hold the nut on and not be very visable.

Joe

Joe,

If you clean the fastener and the nut and apply red Loctite, the fastener will break before the nut can be removed. Without heating before removal, your assembly is literally one piece.

You might be fixating on something that would never occur to a prankster or vandal.

Stuart

I know this is an old thread but, why does this need to be a carriage bolt? My 47 had gr5 3/8" bolts in it....Since I have it apart, should I switch it to carriage bolts?

Just tack weld the nut to the bolt. If it ever needs to be replaced, you're going to scrap it anyway.

"Is it still paranoia if people really are out to get me?"

LOL!
Jerry

If you have access to the bolt head and the head does not interfere with another part, usually moving, you do not need the carriage bolt. Use a standard grade 5 or better bolt and locking nut or threadlocker compound.