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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 | Yup, it's me again. I want to remove the Torque tube from my 1954 3100 4 speed Chevy truck. I have it separated at the transmission and the torgue tube is dropped below the transmission, so there is clearence for the torque tube to slide towards the front of the truck.
If I remove all the nuts around the pumpkin, does the torque tube & enclosed drive shaft come out as a complete assembly?
Thanks | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 506 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 506 |
-Tom
1950 Chevy 3100 w/ 1956 235
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 | Aaah! Thanks for the shop guide. Looks like I'm correct in just, drain the pumpkin and remove all the nuts around the housing and it should split apart.
Thanks | | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,285 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,285 | Have to pull the axles free from the pumpkin too. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 | Thanks Greg, That will change my game plan. My objective is to make the removal of the rearend easier. I'll fall back on just disconnecting rear shackles and rolling the whole rearend and torque tube out the back of the truck.
Thanks Again | | |
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