The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks 62 c10 door hinges

so my passenger side door has required slamming since I bought the truck( not too long ago). I tried adjusting the door at the hinges and adjusting the striker. in the process of retighening the bolts that affix to the cab, I think I bated one loose, as it seems to be spinning freely. I was in a hurry, so I didn't get a chance to investigate much afterwards. has this happened to anyone else? is there a way to get at it from the back side of am I gonna have to cut the bolt off. any help is appreciated. I'm gonna try and pull the doors, do the pin repair thing, replace the regulator and latch and por15 the inside of the door and get it rmounted in a day. too ambitious? and did I fudge it pretty bad with that bolt? any advice on door rebuilding?
thanks

My thoughts, on the spinning nut plate; a lot of times you can soak it in kroil, or wd40. & then try removing the other bolts around it, Pull on the door or pry under the hinge, to put extra pressure on the nut to prevent it from turning, & try turning the screw back & forth till it becomes looser...if you're lucky.-) That has helped me on a lot of things

Back to the slamming door issue:
I put new strikers and door latches on my '62 c-10 last year. I think that if you have original parts still in place, you need to do that first. Secondly, after new latches and strikers are installed, there should be no slamming at all, if you have the strikers adjusted right. It will either catch the striker, or it won't, at least that's what I learned. One of the things I encountered was interference from the inside rubber insulation, as well as a rusted door sill, both of which put pressure on the the inside of the door and caused door slamming. Keep on slamming those doors and you will begin to loosen rear view mirrors and spotlights and window runners, so you have to fix it.

The backing plate is a square with all three hinges bolts, threaded into it, so it is not possible to spin the threaded backing plate. It is held, loosely, in place by a light-gauge wrap, spot-welded to the backside of the "A" pillar and the only way to remedy a problem is to cut the area out, make the repair and weld it back together, unless you can use an easy-out to remove the damaged bolt and retap it.

thanks fellas. i just realized i might be able to get to the back side of those hinges through the kick panel vent? am i wrong? and have been amassing the stuff to get that door rolling again. newish latch, regulator, hinge pin and bushing kit... do the strikers catch a whole lotta wear? i didn't even think to check it out. thanks for the help though. i'll let ya'll know how it pans out in a few days.. i saw some metal putty is stuff that looked pretty slick (maybe lab metal or something like that?) that stuff work at all for locking that threaded plate back down? jb weld? maybe just be a man and learn to weld?