The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop can my coil be bad

converted to twelve volt.installed coil with built in resistor, get power to coil but nothing to cap.tried two different coil wires, same result. anybody?

I assume you still have points? If so I would start with new points and condenser. I have seen condensers go bad for no apparent reason at the most inconvienient times. The points may be burnt or oxidized. If you have power to the coil then somethings amiss with points/condenser

Continuity tester is extremely useful tool! VOM works, too!

Use a test light, and attach the pigtail wire to a known good ground such as the engine block, etc. Touch the probe to the distributor side of the coil primary. (Usually the - terminal). With the points open, the light should burn. As soon as the points close, the light goes out. If the light burns all the time, you've got dirty points, wrong point gap, a broken primary wire, or some other reason the voltage isn't getting to the points. If it's off all the time, points open or closed, you've got a short to ground somewhere between the coil and the points. The light should flicker on and off as the engine is cranked if you probe the distributor side of the coil with the test light.
Jerry

thanks to your tips i got it running, nice and rough. the firing order is correct.it is popping back through the carb. how do i know if i am a tooth off, advanced or retarted? thanks to all who answered!

Pull the valve cover, and watch the #6 valves. Turn the engine by hand until the exhaust valve (last one in line) opens fully and starts to close. As the intake (2nd. from the back) starts to open, the distributor rotor should point right at the #1 plug tower. If you're a tooth off, either reset the distributor or just turn the whole housing to align it properly. The points should just barely open as you turn the dizzy counterclockwise with the rotor lined up with #1 wire and the pointer and ball on the flywheel aligned.
Jerry