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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 25
K
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
K Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 25
My friend and I got the 1934 207 c.i. engine running great! Chased down a bunch of little things and one very big one... there were pieces of metal in the third cylinder. Pulled them out with a magnet. Cobbled together one "good" carburetor from three, and cleaned up the starter while we were at it. One problem though... the starter takes way too much to start. I've heard of running a 6v starter on 12v just to start the car. Any suggestions on finding a kit that will do this?

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,962
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,962
A 6 volt starter will work on 12 volts if you don't crank too long. However these guys can put 12 volt field coils in a 6 volt starter. http://www.classicgenerator.com/

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Make sure you are using big 6V cables(00)in a 6V system, not the skinny 12V cables the parts stores sell.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Are you saying that the starter is drawing too much current or it is hard to start? If it is drawing too much current, the switch to 12 volts may do some real damage to it. If you can turn the motor over by hand, the starter should not have a problem.

I don't see a lot of postings on here about getting a 207 going. That is pretty special. Maybe we will get to see some photos or a video?


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 25
K
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
K Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 25
The starter actually turns by hand so I think it is fine. The 6V just isn't strong enough to crank the starter without it getting hot. I found a 12V to 6V option online. The 12V ends up being a total loss system and needs a trickle recharge twice a year.

The next thing to correct is the carburetor.

The 207 is in a 1934 Master Sedan. I'll see about posting photos soon.

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 130
D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 130
That is good you got the metal out before starting. I am working on putting a rebuilt 207 back together now. It was rebuilt 25 years ago and never used.

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 137
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 137
I can't wait to hear my 207 run. I though I was close but I had the head checked and there was a crack at the valve. I have to clean up another head I have and get it checked out. Then to get one of these carburetor working.


"Save your's or someone else's Grandfather's CLASSIC TRUCK"
1934 1.5-Ton Big Bolts ~ Gallery page https://www.facebook.com/Grizzle-Vintage-Parts-1446215762368948/
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 25
K
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
K Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 25
I recommend getting a 483s (circa 1941) or newer carburetor. The 483s corrected all the previous design flaws. The 569s is the military version of the 483s.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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