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| | | Forums66 Topics128,154 Posts1,057,015 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 150 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 150 | 1. What is a good gear ratio for rebuilding a rear end in a 1955 (2nd series) rear end? Is there a rebuild kit for it? I want to use the original housing with upgraded parts.
2. Is it really practical to swap the rear end out? I know others have to be modified or bought already prepared.
3. Has anyone out there swapped a newer frame into their 1955 GMC or Chevy?
Last edited by Doug5558; 02/11/2010 2:36 AM. Reason: spelling
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | What size truck? 1/2, 3/4 or 1 ton?
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 150 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 150 | I'm going to say 1/2 T. It had a Hydramatic and an inline 6. Plus I found a site that, based on my vin, says 1/2 T. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | OK, that gives us a place to start, as parts availabilty is different depending on truck size. As far as gear choice, there is only 1 gearset available new, and that's a 3.38. All of the bearings, seals, and gaskets are avalable new. Most likly, you have a 3.90 gear, which isn't really too bad. Swapping the entire rear would really depend on what you plan to do with the truck. Most guys that do a rearend swap are also looking to change the wheel bolt pattern, and perhaps go to disk brakes, in addition to a gear swap. With the larger trucks, it's also a matter of no availabilty of aftermarket gears. Others will have to chime in on a frame swap, as mine is still riding on the stock chassis.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 150 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 150 | I'm thinking of leaving it on the "stock" frame. At least, it's stock from the Camaro subframe back. The thing is, in the subframe process, the wheelbase is 3/4" shorter. I guess it's not a big deal but that's why I was thinking of the frame swap. As for the gears, I'll use the truck as a daily driver and occasionally haul a light load. I do want to drop the truck about 3" in the back to more closely match the front. I know there's gear kits out there and mine in all likelyhood has the original gears. I need to identify the rearend type to get the gears. Any advice on how to do that? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 69 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 69 | we'll if you want a cheap rear axle upgrage, the go to a junk yard and get a ford 8.8 rear end. 3.73 gears, Limited slip diff., and ford stuffed them under nearly every late model car or truck. alot of my friends do that as a good off roading upgrade
2000 Nissan Frontier, 3.3L (sold) 2006 Chevy Cobalt SS, 2.4L 1952 Chevy 1/2 pickup, 235 c.i. I6 when life speeds up, downshift
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 549 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 549 | Any advice on how to do that? call Patricks - Telephone (520) 836-1117 (8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday-Friday/MST). I bought a 3:38 set up from them. They did everything they said they'd do, were good to deal with, and shipped in a timely manner. I went from about 3500 RPM to around 2800 at 70mph . Well worth the dough for me.
Last edited by Avette4me; 02/12/2010 12:54 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | Since the front is Camaro why not use a Camaro/Firebird rear? They are the same width as the one you have under it now, can be found in every conceivable gear ratio, and you would have a spare tire that fit both the front and rear.
Evan
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | While you have the axle out make some plates to move the spring pin location to shift the rear axle back 3/4-inch if the frame is now that much too short.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 150 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 150 | I thought about shifting the rear end or even the whole body. I think in the short term I'll go with a rear end rebuild and use new axle shafts with 5 lugs on them. I'll still have to measure the width of the front end. I think the rear end, drum face to drum face, is like 60.5". I have to re-measure. Just out of curiosity, which part did you, or anyone on here, start with? Body? Drivetrain? I don't even know if the guy that welded my subframe put it on straight. | | |
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