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1928 Chevy truck. The roof and cab frame are all wood, and is white oak reproduction done by the Amish in our community literally years ago. When I got the truck in pieces, the roof was warped a good 7-8 inches, and I took care of that. It is perfect. Then, nail set to recess the finishing nails, and lightly belt sanded... then a vibrator sander, GORGEOUS!!! Now, I would love to keep this wood exposed, not paint it or cover it, and wonder if anyone has any experience in this at all that would be willing to discuss options with me. I have to make a decision soon. I have to seal it with danish oil, which will render it "unpaintable" or I need to prime and paint it, but that would be a shame..... I even thought of finishing it with natural danish oil, and perhaps covering it with lexan to keep rain from seeping in through the minute cracks in the seams.... I need help/suggestions in brainstorming this one... All options appreciated!!! THANKS

Well, it is a tough choice.This site recently had a contributor with a problem similar to yours. Most here thought he should just oil it as you suggest, but he also was likely to have it judged on originality, so he felt the need to paint it where it was orginally like that. We all love the look of beautiful wood.That's why most restord AD trucks have beautiful wood beds which of course they were never built with. So I would consider what you plan to do with your '28.Check with AACA for ideas too.

If you decide to keep it natural,I would recommend that you use Tung Oil for a great finish..The advantage of Tung oil is that you can apply it with you bare hand and it rubs in beautifully. If it seems to be drying out it can be redone in a matter of minutes. It is all natural and makes wood look beautiful.
Craig
46trucker

I would go ahead and use real varnish. Epifanes from holland. Put it on as per the directions, if its too glossy, then knock the gloss down with some fine bronze wool. You can always paint over it later, if you want to change the look, or get tired of the maintenance. After five or six coats of varnish, any tiny holes will be filled, and water proof. The advantage of the Epifanes, is that it is very flexible. Tung oil won't really build on the surface, and give you the protection you might want, that is, if you drive your truck in the rain, and leave it outside. But, oiling is much easier.

My 2 cents.

I would like to know how you corrected the warp.

I agree that real varnish is a great product, but if you ever have to refinish it again, it becomes a real job...resanding etc. With tung oil, it will eventually show some drying out, but you simply do a new coat of oil and it is as good as new. I like the tung oil since it is easier, more convenient and much more flexible than varnish. Each spring when my truck comes out of storage it gets a new wax job and new tongue oil applied

Craig
46trucker

First, I worked with wood for a bunch of years, and then I did some research on why the warp happens and compared it to the situation I found the top in, leaning against a door in an old farmhouse with a broken window. Other parts collapsed on it bending (warping it) and it got damp for a number of years too. I was lucky that it did not rot. I took it to the h.s. shop, and as luck would have it, the dimensions were perfect to pay it as a diamond on the work bench, and then I clamped it with four Jorgenson clamps with the roof upside down, so I could lay a wet towel on the warped part which dampens and relaxes the wood fibers allowing them to stretch. This took two nights to get it back and then it was perfect. I was lucky! It was warped a good seven inches. I was surprised on the third morning when I removed the clamps, turned it right side up, and it laid perfectly on the work surface.

This truck sounds cool. I would use a danish oil. Either natural color or with the tint you would like. You will have to keep it clean and re-apply periodically. But that is the way I would go.

Varnish would make the wood look like a laminate

I would also like to see what it looks like.

Best of luck

I am surprised that you successfully reformed the warped area. I would have thought it retained a "memory" and would eventually warp again.