The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop '53 3600 clutch - New Problem!

I just finished installing a '58 235 in my '53 Chevy. Since the truck had been sitting for 35 years and I have everything disassembled, I am going to buy a new clutch kit for it. This is where I ran into issues. I measured the old clutch I pulled out, that was behind the old 216, and it measures about 11" across. It seems that it should have been either 10" or 9 1/8".

From what I can tell, the flywheel is the correct unit. What size clutch kit should I order?

Hy Ferndale53, if you are going to use the 53 flywheel and keep your six volt starter, then I would use the 11" clutch, personally I don't believe you can use too large a clutch, as long as it will fit in the bellhousing you are using.

Is there a cross reference to what 11" clutch would work? I can't seem to find a replacment 11" being sold anywhere; I can only find the smaller ones. In that vain, would one of the smaller clutch kits bolt up and work fine?

Hey Fern,
I think what you have is 10 3/4" clutch.
I bought one this past summer for my '52 3600. It was USA made.
Click here

Hey Ferndale53-

The flywheel will have holes drilled to fit only the one size pressure plate (~12" apart) so you really can't use a smaller clutch unless you get a different flywheel too. The 11" clutch is the heavy-duty version used on commercial and some 4-speed trucks. I've seen several outfits that sell a new 11" clutch kit (no core charge!), and I know that Jim Carter Classic Truck Parts does sell refurbished 11" disks and pressure plates (with core charge).

Have you had the flywheel resurfaced yet? I'd do that first because if you have hot spots, etc the flywheel may be out of limits and you'll have the pleasure of finding a different one anyway. The resurfacing has to be done with a proper flywheel grinder, preferably by someone in the business. (I had a chum with a brake lathe turn mine, and the hot spots were breaking lathe bits and it didn't come out flat. I could see the last mechanic's finger prints beautifully immortalized in steel as hard hot spots that now stood up above the rest of the surface.

When you do order the new clutch kit, make sure you verify with the vendor that the new pressure plate hole number/spacing matches up with the flywheel, that the disk has 10 splines, and the throw-out bearing is the 1-7/8" deep model. I agree with 3B- there is no problem with having a big clutch- they grab better, slip less, and last longer.

When you install it, treat it like a brake job- clean everything spotless with brake cleaner, and leave absolutely no fingerprints.

I do not like to use a larger clutch then needed. It makes shifting harder & slower & is hard on syncros.

Wrenchbender Ret.-

With all due respect, I think you might need to explain your comment to me- (not arguing, just enjoy debating)

With the clutch pedal engaged, the only item "attached" to the transmission input shaft is the clutch disk itself, the weight and moment of inertia of which are probably indistinguishable between the 9" and 11". Also, the heavy duty clutch was more often used with the 4-spd transmission, so those syncros were made to handle it. Not trying to say that there is not maybe some small difference in feel, but the benefits (IMAO) outweigh the downside.

-W

You are right, the 4 speed is made to handle the 11 in. clutch. The syncros have to slow the disc down from turning. The larger the disc the more it will take to do it. I'm saying I would not put in any larger size clutch then needed. If a guy uses a clutch correctly it will take a long time to wear out the linings. Usually something else will go before then. Like a TO brg or a spring come out of the disc or broken spring in the pressure plate.

I just remeasured the clutch and your right, I actually have a 10 3/4" clutch.

I have already had the flywheel machined so I am definitely going to stick with it. I will pick up that clutch from Autozone, but they don't seem to list the pressure plate. Any ideas where I can pick one up?

I have a feeling this old one isn't usable:
Pressure Plate

Looks like they do have a 10 3/4" pressure plate if you can't use the one you got.
Part number CA342A
Click

Huh, don't know how I missed that. Since I don't want to have to worry about this later,I want to replace everything else. For the release bearing, autozone is showing 3, for a flat, bent, and 3 finger clutch. This is my first time doing this, I don't know all there fancy lingo. Which one is right? The pilot bearing they list is, PB656HD, which I assume is right.

The alignment tool and spline arn't specific for this truck, and should be fairly generic, right?

Most clutches now are sold as a complete kit new. Beware of reman pressure plates. You don't know what you will get.

I looked through napa and autozones' websites, they don't list the 10 3/4" as a complete kit. Believe me, if I could order a kit I would!

The pressure plate with the flat fingers that are near parallel with the plate surface takes the long TO brg. The one that has the fingers extended outward to about the height of the cover uses the short TO brg. You don't want to use a 3 finger clutch at all. The pilot brgs. all fit the same but some are a roller brg. & some are a bronze bush. I like the bush. one myself. The align tool is for all Chev's except large trucks.

I just tried to order it and they told me the supplier was out of them. Does anyone know who else sells that size pressure plate? Thanks

Ok, unless I missed it, all we're missing is the throwout bearing, 1 7/8" tall. They were the same from the bigining of time till '53, I'm surprised that AutoZone doesn't list them.

Now, if you go down to the local AutoZone and order it, are you going to save any money like on the shipping? Or since it will be a special order will they hit you with the same shipping as you would pay having it shipped to the house?

DG

They have everything except the pressure plate. If you try to order the pressure plate online it gives an error saying they don't have any. I went down to my local store and tried to order it, and according to the guy no stores have it, no warehouses have it, and their supplier doesn't have any either.

Try Rock Auto for your clutch kit, I've had good luck with them on a lot of the parts that I've bought for my '50, 3600.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
DG

That was the first place I looked, they have an incredible selection. Unfortunetly that selection doens't include the 10 3/4 clutch or pressure plate.

Any comments about bowtie bits? They seem to have a rebuilt pressure plate I need.

I just realized, I bought a pilot bushing from bowtie bits, and it says its for upto 1955. The engine in my truck is a '58-'62 car engine. I don't know what kind of transmission it had, I bought the engine on a stand.

Would that be the right pilot bushing?

How did you do on your clutch venture?
I'm looking for an 11" Clutch Disc and pressure plate with a 9 bolt pattern.... so far, all I've found is 6 bolt pattern. My engine is an early 1955 235.
I'm pulling my hair out!
Thanks, Monica

I made a very interesting discovery yesterday when I went to install my clutch, my pilot bushing didn't fit!

I bought the bushing from bowtie bits, which I think was a mistake as my engine is (I think) from a car. I ran to advance auto, and got a pilot bushing they had listed for a '58 235, and it was still too big!

I had them order part #14651 , which says its for a powerglide to manual conversion, and has an OD of 1.060", so hopefully it'll fit.

Why would the cranks on a powerglide have a smaller hole?

UGH! I got the powerglide to manual conversion pilot bushing, and it slides right into the crank. It spins in the crank. So, the only bushings listed for a 235 are either too big, or too small.

What the heck is wrong here? I am utterly confused..

If there's no excessive slop in the PG bushing fit, just slightly loose, give it a liberal coat of green LocTite, install it, and let it sit overnight. The green stuff is designed to tighten up loose bushings, bearing races, etc. If it's sloppy enough to move back and forth in the hole the LocTite won't help- - - -the bushing will end up off-center. You'll need to get one of the too-big bushings machined down until it's about one thousandth bigger than the hole in the crankshaft,and drive it in. They're usually pretty tight, so try getting some accurate measurements to see how much press fit you've got now. You can get by with about a .002" press fit, but more than that will shrink the inside hole so the transmission shaft will be in a bind.
Jerry

The undersized(1.060" OD) bushing slides in and out without a problem. The next bushing, with an OD of 1.093 compresses too much when forced in. Should I be worried about damage to the crank?