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#612172 01/21/2010 11:45 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
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J
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Thanks for the advice with the new harness it was all good and I'am starting to get a handle on it.But it was suggested by Clitus that I don't try to wire any accessories in to the harness,and make a new harness and fuse box.That part went right over my head!I'am a real novice when it comes to this electric stuff, so you'll have to spell it out for me.I looked at the old harness and it seems that every thing was on or off the head light switch or ignition.There must be a better way! thanks

jimmy1 #612202 01/22/2010 1:29 AM
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[I want negative ground, 12 volt with turn signals, 4 ways, a mordern stereo, electric wipers, fog lights, and a cigarette lighter.]

what cletis said was probably to make sure the harness worked out first before you started adding all the rest to make it easier to troubleshoot the harness if something was amiss.

did the wiring harness come wired for turn signals and wipers if so then that eliminates two of your desires. as for the rest what do you want powered hot or with a turn of the key? when i wired my 40 the turn signals were in the harness and no electric wipers. the stereo i wanted hot so i could run it with the truck off. i took it off the ammeter post. i also fused it and added a switch for it so i can kill all the power when not in use. the heater was hot prior to rewiring it and i took that off the ing. switch so that the key has to be on for it to work. i would hook the fog lights up that way too so you dont end up with a dead battery from forgetting to turn them off.

51 ashton #612719 01/23/2010 6:25 PM
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Yes it is wired for turnsignals/at least thats what the directions say and I have 5 wires for the signal switch. In the old harness the wiper motor and radio were wired into splices that came off the ignition switch between the starter button.The wipers and radio did't work.In fact the only thing it did do was to start and run.I thought the original wipers were vacuum,but the diagram in the manual I have shows electric.To make matters more confusing I have the vacuum switch in it's original spot.Someone did a bad job of installing the newport wiper motor to the cowel vent bracket and let the new switch dangel down from under the dash,"Nice Job".There was no wireing for the heater motor or cigar lighter.The heater switch is gone and the wires cliped to the motor.Anyway that was then and this is now. Following the advice you guys have given me so far,I think its safe to say I've got a good basic harness to start with.All the connections are where they should go,the Dash and its lights to the ignition switch,Main through the firewall to the engine,head lights and tail lights.I guess everything else is considered an accessory.I'am also learning about how important grounds are,and there are no wires on the harness or in the directions marked "grounds".The only thing I have thats close to a fuse box is the little 2 fuses with the 4 wires mounted on the fire wall, and that is shown on the diagram in the manual and the new harness has the wires for it in the right location so I'am sure it's original.If the wipers,headlights,fogs,radio and heater and cigar lighter work with the ignition key off thats ok!I don't want it to be able to start without the key.I have what I think is an original style ignition switch and an old but nice after market dash mounted push button which I want to keep. I'd like to hear and better yet see how other guys have done this.The threads I'am reading are mostly dealing with new stuff on an old system.I've got a clean slate,I just need some step by step instruction and opinions like "this is how I wired my heater or fog lights" and these are the parts I used! Thanks jimmy

jimmy1 #612833 01/24/2010 3:02 AM
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Wondering if I can get a few opinions on a new harness for my '48. Shes all stock and the origninal is 1/2 bare so I'm thinking of replacing.I see a wide price range on these things and was wondering what my best bet is. I'd like the more original look, thanks.

briank #612838 01/24/2010 3:31 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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First decision:
Do you want original style wire (braided cover) or plastic covered wires? Plastic is less expensive.

Second decision:
Do you want the original number of circuits (and use the original fuses) or additional circuits and modern fuses?


tclederman #612850 01/24/2010 4:25 AM
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Cloth (braided) would be nice but that probably adds a lot to the price. Original style fuses ok, I'm not gonna add anything except an original radio and maybe turn signals. I'm only gonna drive the 'Burb a fewe miles to town and back.

tclederman #612853 01/24/2010 4:30 AM
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OK,jimmy1,wiring for accessaries,you can come off the battery or the ignition switch to a fuse box and wire your things from there using the proper gauge wire and fuses for each item.There is plenty of guidance in here for you to use.If I'm wrong someone will correct me!!


briank,I purchased my harness from Bowtiebits.com at 145.00,came with just about everything except radio,lighter,and heater.

Last edited by PapaJ; 01/24/2010 4:34 AM.

1953 Chevy Two-Ton
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Be careful calling yourself a expert,because an "EX" is a hasbeen and a"SPERT" is a drip under pressure.

PapaJ #612940 01/24/2010 3:30 PM
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Briank! you don't want a harness like mine "Chevy Duty" It's a good quality harness with all the wires over size compared to the original I took out,But its not cloth covered as original and every wire is color coded and numbered,"More colors than a Walt Disney movie"!!It's OK for me because I'am building a driver that will be driven in the rain and kept outside at times."PapaJ"I did a test fit yesterday and found out I was wrong when I said in my last post that it was wired for turn signals,In the rear Yes in the front No. Now what to do? It looks like I'll be searching for yet more parts. Any suggestions for a fuse panel? I guess I'll put the wipers,radio,cigar lighter,and heater on it.Thanks Jimmy

jimmy1 #612952 01/24/2010 4:09 PM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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I have used four harnesses from Chevy Duty (Classic Parts) and they are excellent, IF you are OK with the standard number of circuits. Also, as Jimmy stated, the wires are plastic coated (which is "correct" for 1954 - I have 1954/55 trucks).

They also supplied enough extra wire for all four signal-lamps (if you want to use them). All wires were terminated (except for the signal-lamp wires), all wires were numbered on both ends (numbers referenced in the installation instructions), and all wires' colors matched the colors in the factory wiring diagram.

In the original trucks, the leads for accessories (such as, wipers/radio/cigar-lighter/heater) were attached to the ignition switch, light switch, or a post on the ammeter (all shown in the accessory installation manual). Some of the original accessory lead-wires had an in-line fuse (radio and heater,for examples).

I am not pushing an original vs non-original approach (or the use of plastic vs cloth) - just posting information.

tclederman #612988 01/24/2010 6:00 PM
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Is the insulated terminal block cn-1 at Mad electric the same as a fuse block and could I use it instead of a fuse block? It looks smaller and easy to find a place to mount.

jimmy1 #613252 01/25/2010 6:24 AM
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jimmy1,do you have turn signals on the front of your truck? If so are they on the fenders? If not,then LMC and others have park/turn you can replace with.Which turn switch are you using? Get matching color/gauge wire and run to signals.Use the 4 connecter junction for your connection point. Have fun.


Jeff


1953 Chevy Two-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

Be careful calling yourself a expert,because an "EX" is a hasbeen and a"SPERT" is a drip under pressure.

PapaJ #613475 01/26/2010 12:14 AM
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I think I do PapaJ! Hows that for an answer? I don't have lights on the tops of my fenders,all I had was the parking lights and I got modern sockets with dual filiment bulbs,but I haven't tried them out yet. The sockets are 3 wire 2 black 1 white. I have a 7 wire signal-stat 900 that I plan on using for the turnsignal switch.Thanks jimmy


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