The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 6v Alternator Part 2

Ok, I bought a 6v Alternator from Jim Carters. Per the Directions I connected the yellow wire from the DA Plug to the positive terminal of the coil. Let me tell you guys! It made the truck run like S$#@$#%&#$#T. Can You guys tell me what the deal is? We unhooked it and the truck runs great & shuts off with no problem.

Lend-Lease 1.5 ,

Could Jim Carter help you out on this problem? I don't know their system....DA #1 is the circuit that should be energized to excite the alternator, is this the yellow wire? If this is correct and they recommend connecting it to the coil, there should be a diode in that line to prevent run-on after the key switch is turned off.

DA#1 would become a voltage source after the alternator started charging but it shouldn't cause the ignition to go nuts and make the engine run like crap! It sort of sounds like there might be a mix up in what wire goes where....is that possible?

Stuart

I understand you asking the question, however no I haven't made a mistake according to the directions. The truck was taken to a repair shop and the mechanic confirmed that I had it installed correctly. The DA plug only has two wires in which the short red wire is connected to the rear terminal along with the battery 10ga wire. The much longer yellow wire is to be connected to the + terminal. Truck has the old style coil where the disto wire connects to the bottom, it has a large wire comming into the top, and a small terminal wire that I believe to be + near the top. Have I confused the + or - connections on this old coil?

Do you have a reversing switch in your ignition system?

If you do, might this complicate the wiring?

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to call "FITH AVENUE ANTIQUE AUTO PARTS" where Jim Carters got the DA plug from.

Just for grins, try connecting that yellow wire back under the dash, at the ignition switch. It shouldn't make a difference, but if you find a terminal that's switched on/off with the ignition, you'll be sure to have a correct connection. Since electricity travels approximately 186,000 miles/second, a few feet of circuit length shouldn't make a difference, but it's worth a try. Also, the polarity at the ignition switch does not reverse itself.
Jerry

Thanks for the tip. I contacted several places and I was advised the same thing. I was also told to try the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. I'l the switch first. Thanks

The 'S" terminal is only energized during cranking. I doubt if that would be appropriate, unless all the alternator needs is a momemtary signal to start the regulator working. If you've got a stomp starter, there won't be an S terminal anyway!
Jerry

I'm just going to try the ingnition switch. If the yello wire is not hooked up, is the battery being charged while the engine is running. The amp ga is working. Thanks for your help.

Lend-Lease 1.5,


Applying power to DA#1 excites the alternator and allows it to begin charging. If this doesn't happen the alternator will not charge.

Stuart

Thanks for the tip, the amp gauge shows that the Alternator is in fact charging. Mystery? Is this considered a three wire alternator or one wire?

Lend-Lease 1.5,

A single wire alternator would have only the large BATT connection while a three wire would have DA#1 and DA#2 as well as the BATT wire to make a total of three.

It's easy for an automotive electrical repair shop to install a different internal regulator to make your three wire a single wire if you so desired.

Stuart

By attaching a permanent jumper wire from the large Batt. terminal to the DA #2 terminal, you can make the alternator self-excite and charge anytime the speed is correct. The #1 terminal is not needed unless you plan to use a "no charge" indicator light. If you use the no charge light, power the bulb from switched ignition voltage, and use the #1 terminal as the ground. It will illuminate the bulb when the alternator is not charging, and turn it off as soon as alternator charge voltage equals or exceeds battery voltage. I've been wiring farm tractor charging systems that way for many years. Just loop the #2 wire over to the big battery terminal and permanently attach it.
Jerry

Hotrod Lincoln,

I don't quite understand your post. It isn't uncommon to attach DA#2 to the large BATT post to sense system voltage but I wasn't aware this would make a three wire 10SI alternator self-excite. It has been my experience that this unit will not charge when DA#1 is broken or disconnected for any reason.

Stuart

Thanks for the tips, forgive my ignorance but is DA #1 the red or yellow wire? I just want to make sure.

After reading several other posts, I have read that the "Yellow" wire from the DA plug is not needed unless your using a "Idiot" light inside the cab. I have read that the once the short red wire is connected to the battery terminal on the alternator it exsites the regulator causing the it to charge?

Lend-Lease 1.5,

The alternator case should have numbers embossed that indicate the numbers 1 and 2 where the DA plug attaches although I have seen units that do not have them. The DA plug is polarized and the 'sense' wire it a much larger gauge than the'excite'(yellow?) wire.

IMHO, your alternator won't charge with DA#1 disconnected if it's equipped with the standard three wire (internal) regulator...why don't you connect it with and without and see what happens.

Give us a report on your findings so this question can be properly and accurately answered in the future.

Stuart

atomarc, take a look at the first post on this topic and it will answer your questions. I have tried several options per the directions that came with the alternator. The amp gauge shows "charging" without the yellow wire conected to the + terminal on the coil. Thanks

Atomarc, it all depends on which regulator assembly is installed. The very early internal regulators would not self-excite, and had to have at least the slight voltage available downstream of an idiot light on the #1 terminal to begin the charging process. A few years into production, Delco changed the internal wiring to allow the rotation of the rotor to begin the excitation process as long as battery voltage was present on the #2 terminal. The farm equipment I used to retrofit needed to have the engine revved up one time to begin the charging process, and somewhat later, with another internal regulator modification, that also became unnecessary. There are at least three different internal circuits on the regulators, with different operating characteristics. Only one needs the #1 wire voltage.
Jerry

I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing that I have a self-exiting regulator. I'm going to call again to find out. I just Called Jim Carters where I bought it. They weren't sure about the regulator being self exciting.

If it's maintaining a charging voltage of 14.0 to 14.7 against a fully-charged battery, and never exceeding 15 volts under any circumstances, just drive on and be happy! It's working right!
Jerry

Did I mention that this is a 6v Alternator?

OOPS! I forgot! normal full-charge voltage on a 6-Volt system is 7.0 to 7.5 Volts.
Jerry