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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 39
S
Apprentice
Apprentice
S Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 39
Hey fellas...me again...my clutch pedal arm has a very large worn hole on the end where the rod end goes through. I have ordered a new rod and a new return spring but the bottom of the clutch arm where the hole is, is fairly large and worn. What do you guys recommend?

Thanks (as usual) again!
Tom


1951 Chev.P.U. Streetrod-project
1951 Chev cpe 261 5-speed-50%
1953 Chev cpe 350/700-95%
1962 Chev Bubbletop 409 -75%
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 887
N
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
N Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 887
Chevs of the 40s had them in their last catelog. Also, you could have posted in the 'parts wanted' forum.

I've got one in great shape you can have for $20-I glass beaded it, primered it and painted it grey before deciding to go with a hydraulic throw out bearing and clucth master cylinder because the arm hit the power brake booster.

E-mail me and I'll send you my address.


'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 299
K
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
K Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 299
You can weld up the wear with braze and redrill,or drill larger and put in a bushing.Sometimes I just weld up any wear with regular weld and just file it down or drill to the correct size.Or buy a new one.
Lothar

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 39
S
Apprentice
Apprentice
S Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 39
NM51:
I just emailed you. Do you haev any photos of the hydraulic set up?

Gentlemen...thanks for your ideas! This is a place where all your questions are answered!

Now, what is the meaning of life???


1951 Chev.P.U. Streetrod-project
1951 Chev cpe 261 5-speed-50%
1953 Chev cpe 350/700-95%
1962 Chev Bubbletop 409 -75%
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 887
N
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
N Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 887
My bad-... I was thinking of the clutch fork arm. For the pedal arm I agree with KillerNight- Weld it up, grind and drill back to original. IF you don't have a welder there are plenty of welding shops that can do it all for you for fairly cheap.

I will send you a link to the hydrualic clutch set up. Basically I mounted the master cylinder for the clutch where the brake mastercylinder was, near the frame rail, since that space was open after I put in the brake booster and dual master. The clutch master cylinder lined up nicely with the stock clutch pedal after I modified the brake pedal to line up the brake booster rod.

Old brake pedal arm from pivot downward

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+
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+

Newly modified pedal rod from pivot downward ('0' is empty space)

+
+++
00+
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'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,513
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,513
If you don't have a welder which I agree is probably the easiest and cheapest way then any bearing jobber should have a drill bushing that would work for you. Take the rod with you and ask for a slip fit. Drill,ream,and then press in the bushing.


1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
You Tube
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 39
S
Apprentice
Apprentice
S Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 39
Ok fellas', I welded it up myself and redrilled it! I looks and works perfectly...don't know why I didn't think of it myself...I feel like a schmuck!

Thanks for the assist!
Tom


1951 Chev.P.U. Streetrod-project
1951 Chev cpe 261 5-speed-50%
1953 Chev cpe 350/700-95%
1962 Chev Bubbletop 409 -75%

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