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Searched and found that this is trouble for many. Is there anything holding my pitman arm on the steering box shaft other than 1 nut and 1 lockwasher? I just broke a perfectly good pitman arm puller on the thing. It took a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a pipe extension. I tried pb blaster and some heat. I see no cross-pin (or reason for one) but it seems to be a huge amout of force. 1955 first series 1/2 ton. Thanks - Scott

I suggest using an impact gun on a puller. The shock will help to break it free. I bent my puller getting it off.

the splines are tapered , the arm gets locked on really well .

I used a ford hub puller as it wrapped around the arm better than a regular puller .

Oh, yeah , and a big hammer ...

They can be really tight.
I haven't yet had one that this Snap-On puller couldn't remove. Part number CJ119B

Grigg

I have had to use a bearing splitter and a hydraulic press. Make sure someone is holding the box because it will head towards your toes like a bullet when it breaks loose.

Hey Scott,

It should come off without any heat.
And no need for a pipe extension on your puller.
But you will need that big hammer like Dusty said.

Also, make sure you put the nut back on loose,
after you remove the washer.
This will keep it from heading "towards your toes like a bullet when it breaks loose."
Because it will fly, if you don't have that nut on....

Tighten up the puller with your bar.
Remove your wrench, take your hammer
and wack the puller adjusting nut end.
Tighten the puller and hit it again.
Repeat until it breaks loose.

Some good advice already given above. I will add that while the puller is loaded, I like to use a pair of hand sledges 180 deg. apart, one as a back-up & rapping with the other on the outside of the Pitman. BE SURE you have the nut back on to retain it. IF you heat it, you must use a rosebud tip for max. fast heat so's it doesn't just soak into the shaft & expand it equally.
Doug

I borrowed a pitman puller from the auto store and used the hammer, it came off without much trouble.

Question: Is it possible to replace the shaft seal (its very leaky) without removing the shaft?

It may be possible to change the seal that way. If there is any play in the bushing, the seal will leak.

Let the gear oil drain out & fill the box with chassis grease. It won't leak out. Some drill & tap 1/8" pipe threads into the box top for a zerk fitting.
Doug

While pumping the steering box full of grease will stop the leak , it won't actually lubricate it as effectively.

I know grease in the s/box is common, but so is galled worm and notchy steering. They go hand in hand.

The factory used oil for a good reason.

end of rant.



ps, penrite make a good steering gear oil ,

What about that Deere GearHead grease?

Cornhead grease is the correct name for the John Deere stuff. It's supposed to be the right consistency.

Thanks for all the replies. Originally, I tried pulling the 1/2" breaker bar 1/8 turn, then hitting the top of the puller with a 2 pound hammer and swearing. I got to a point where I couldn't get the 1/8 turn but the swearing became much easier. I put on the pipe extension but was too lazy to crawl out from under each time(best pulling angle for me) and hit between pulls. I guess I didn't mention that the steering box is still on the truck. I figured I would have an easier time weaving the box and column out with the pitman arm removed. I had the grill off for another job and "dominoed" this job in figuring that having the grill off might ease the removal of the steering box and column. Thanks again - Scott

The John Deere part number is AN102562.

Well I’d never heard that before Dusty, you’re the first one to bring that up. But being the doubting Thomas that I am, I just had to go out and check the pitman arm shaft on my 1950, 3600. Yep, you’re absolutely correct, the spline is tapered (3.5°) and that would account for about 95% of the problem that the guys have had getting them off. The other 5% would be the rust.
Each to his own but beating on it with a hammer is certainly not the way to break it loose. I’ve never had a problem pulling them with the proper “pitman arm puller” and a little concentrated heat applied with a no. 1 or 2 torch tip, playing the heat around the arm outside of the spline. A rosebud tip would be over kill in my opinion and difficult to put the heat where you really need it. I also have a heat blanket (Refersil) that I place around the back side of the arm before I heat it.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Well I’d never heard that before Dusty, you’re the first one to bring that up. But being the doubting Thomas that I am, I just had to go out and check the pitman arm shaft on my 1950, 3600. Yep, you’re absolutely correct, the spline is tapered (3.5°) and that would account for about 95% of the problem that the guys have had getting them off. The other 5% would be the rust.
Each to his own but beating on it with a hammer is certainly not the way to break it loose. I’ve never had a problem pulling them with the proper “pitman arm puller” and a little concentrated heat applied with a no. 1 or 2 torch tip, playing the heat around the arm outside of the spline. A rosebud tip would be over kill in my opinion and difficult to put the heat where you really need it. I also have a heat blanket (Refersil) that I place around the backside of the arm before I heat it.
Don't use chassis grease, it will not flow and you end up with a situation something similar to cavatation in a liquid, that is, channels in the grease and you will get no lubrication to the balls. With a new seal you should be able to use heavy hypoid grease and not have any leakage. I use Penrite steering gear lube but a 140 gear lube would perform fine also.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

The shop manual specifically states NOT to do that.

If I have a box completely clean, I put in Mobil Lith 007 which is a semi fluid synthetic grease. I have been running it in the wheel bearings of all my trailers for about 15 years now. It pumps like gear lube, but it isn't near as prone to leak. Of course its not recommended for the old boxes because it came along 40 years after the old boxes were built.

I use 000 grade grease in my gear box. It works very smooth and this grade of grease is one step away from a oil. Let it set for awhile and it lays out flat, semi liquid. The John Deere is 0 or 00 grade and works just as well.

The old time trick was to mix 1/2 and 1/2 gear oil and grease to make a thick semi liquid gear box oil.

Don't try a wheel bearing or normal grease gun grease, its way to stiff and will not flow back on itself.


As far as changing the seal with the shaft in place, just drill a small hole in the outer edge of the seal. Then screw in a small screw and use it to pull the seal out. You can buy new seals at any parts store, GM used the same one for many years, they should be in $5 to $6 range.

Use a socket or pipe to install the new one. They are small and bend easy if you don't get them started straight.

Joe

Thanks to all for the good advice. I was able to get it apart. My lesson was this... When it gets too difficult to turn the wrench on the puller, don't get a pipe to extend the handle. Get a bigger hammer or hit it more often to loosen it up. I would only rotate the puller about 15 degrees between beatings. Although initially I was using a hammer, it was a 2 "pounder" with a short handle. I attribute the success to the 3 pounder with a longer handle. I also took the advise to hit the outside of the pitman arm with the hammer, using a brass rod to prevent injury to the pitman arm. I did manage to break my favorite adjustable wrench (12" Diamond Horseshoe), but I was able to finsh the job with a 10" Crescent because it became easier. It oooosed off without a pop. The puller was a cheap $14.00 Chinese puller "borrowed" from Auto Zone. Thanks again. -Scott

P.S.
I started this because of leaks, so I put the steering box in the vice and filled it up with kerosene. I hope to check it tomorrow to see where the leaks are and where I will have to replace parts. Then I will ask you where I can find detailed rebuild instructions.