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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
S
Apprentice
Apprentice
S Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
Hi All-

stock '53 half-ton with enclosed driveshaft-

I'm losing universal joint oil down the driveshaft housing, and from the miles/wear I'm probably due for a new bushing and seal in the transmission end of the enclosed driveshaft. Does anyone have experience (either positive or negative) with the Drive Shaft Bushing and Seal part listed at classic parts? (link below) This sure looks a lot easier to replace than the original bushing and seal. Was it hard to install? Thanks! -Warren

http://www.classicparts.com/1951-54-Drive-Shaft-Bushing-Seal/productinfo/92-012/


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 101
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 101
Just wondering if you spoke with anyone at Classic Parts about using this part, and if it was hard to install? Might be the way to go since nobody has answered you query.


Disciple
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270

Warren,

If you are not taking the driveshaft out of the torque-tube (for a rebuild or a R&P conversion, for example), that bushing (often called an Okie bushing, no offense Greg_H) seems to be the almost standard choice.

Some people simply push in the old bushing/seal and install the repair bushing (easier). Removing the old bushing/seal is a "cleaner" procedure.

In some years, there is a pin through the outside of the torque-tube into the original bushing which has to be removed/drilled-out(?). Maybe someone will post clearer information or post a link to an earlier discussion that better describes this?

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
S
Apprentice
Apprentice
S Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
Thanks for the reply, Tim-

I do plan on making the 3.55 ring/pinion swap at some point in the future, and would like to replace the original seal and bushing, but the dowel pin that needs to be drilled out and the special tool required to pull them out, etc, seem pretty complicated. The Okie bushing (I love that smile looks so much easier, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't making a sucker move opting for the easier way.

I haven't seen a source for that original bushing and seal except for those in the 3.55 swap kit that Patrick's sells- It would be really cool if somebody could post pictures and how-to for doing this job the right way.

Thanks again, -Warren

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270

The 3.55 ring and pinion should be installed (or at least strongly considered to be installed) with the matching bearing/bushing/installation kit from Patrick's. The Okie bushing comes in that set (I do not think that he provides an original bearing/bushing and seal, but I could be wrong).

Maybe Sweet will post a link to the excellent photo-log he made of his 3.55 conversion.

Patrick's provides a pretty good instruction booklet but it has awful photos and a few omissions. You should also get a Shop manual for the year of your rear-end. The tools (mostly measurement devices) can be cheaply bought at Harbor Freight.

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 202
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 202
Hi, squarenutz, you should install the 3.55 ring and pinion set from Patrick's with the installation kit. Note: there are 2 OD sizes of bushing.On my Canadian 53 rear end it took bushing B. To remove the dowels what I did was drill and tap the dowels and use a small slide hammer to remove them and then on the hole to the rear of the truck I found a large copper pipe that fit in and then MIG welded the hole shut.Note; steel welding rod will not stick to copper. As per Patrick's, I found a 6ft pipe and drove out the bushings. When installing the new bushing I warmed up the end of the torque tube and installed the bushing. The new bushing with seal locates the seal on a unworn part of the drive shaft.


Keep the 216's running. 1949 1/2 ton model #1314 (US 3104) Brian

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