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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,029 Posts1,055,417 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 141 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 141 | Hello, I have now installed a one wire alternator on my 228. If I understand this correctly, I can do the wiring by removing the field and the generator wires from the voltage regulator and connecting the alternator to the bat. wire at the regulator, using the regulator as a connector to hold the two wires. If all of this works, could I use the gem wire at the regulator, move it to the bat screw, and connect the wire that went to the A screw on the generator to the alternator? Thanks, Chris | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Chris,
It's late and I'm foggy so I'm not sure I understand your post. If you use the output of the single wire alternator and splice it to the BATT wire from your old regulator, you get a instant connection to the ammeter and the rest of the charging system.
Are you trying to retain the stock look by leaving the old regulator on the firewall?
If you are only using the regulator terminals as a buss for connecting alternator output and access to the old charging system, you could probably use any terminal you wanted as long as no other terminals were active. It would only be a connection point.
Stuart
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 400 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 400 | I took the wires off the generator and the regulator,put the big wire on the alt. and the bat. terminal of the reg.,fold the small wire back on itself and tape it up.I now have one wire that operates my meter and charges my battery.(with a fusable link inline between the alt.and reg.)
Last edited by PapaJ; 12/31/2009 7:39 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 | There are some good comments and a good link in my post about alternator upgrades, they may help you with this question as well..
1946 1-ton Panel 1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body | | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 | Yes you are correct if you are disconnecting your Fld wire from the Reg and Gen ends of the harness and folding them back as suggested. (not nessisary as Delco systems are Neg Fld), Simply move the Gen wire to the Bat term and connect them. One thing to note is that your Stock Amp gauge is only rated for about 30amps max + or - and your Alternator will be at least a 60amp?? So don't over load your gauge or you will spring it and it will be off Zero and out that amount ever after. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 141 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 141 | Thanks everyone, I have it all together and seems to be working properly. How do I keep from overloading my amp gauge? Thanks, Chris | | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 | Could install a 25-30 amp re-setting breaker in either wire from the amps gauge, but i'm not to sure how your alternator might handle having its output wire interupted. Biggest thing is don't charge a low or dead battery with your Alternator (never a good idea in any application). Don't connect more loads that the gauge circut can handle. Ignitioni, heater, lights etc. Turn one load on at a time and keep and eye on your gauge, If it runs too close to the end of the scale then you could do damage to it. I will check with our Tec guy in Toronto about our 1wire alternators. | | |
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