The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Anybody reversed?

Looking for someone who has reversed their rear springs when changing to an open drive to center the wheel in the wheelwell. I'm looking for about 1-1/2" back to make it look right. I've made a 1/2"X1-3/4X6" plate with offcenter hole to go over spring center bolt and weld to the perch but the bottom shackle plate has about an inch riding over thin air. I contemplated removing the bottom short leaf to soften up the ride a bit which would correct the open space. I sure would like some confirmation about which way to go before I bust a gut fighting with the spring bolt. Anybody got any suggestions?

TAKE ALL THE LEAFS APART AND REDRILL ONLY THE MAIN LEAF 1 1/2" BACK AND THEN USE A CHOP SAW TO STAGER CUT THE OTHERS AS NEED SO EVERY THING CAN LINE UP AGAIN, BUY A GOOD DRILL BIT

I took my springs to a spring shop where they relined them, rearched them, and replaced the main spring. I told them I planned to reverse them so they put the fittings (bushings) for the thick bolt that goes in the front into the rear eyelet and bushings for the shackles into what used to be the front eyelet. I put the springs on and bolted in my my new 12 bolt posi with a couple of 1" lowering blocks and it is perfectly centered in the wheel wells!

While I was at it I replaced the bushings in the shackle mount. They were in there pretty good and after I couldn't drive the bushings out on my own I ground out the rivet heads with a 4" grinder, knocked the rivets out with a drift and hammer and took the mounts to the same spring shop= they pressed the old bushings out and new ones in, then I bolted them back into the frame with grade 8 bolts, nuts, flat washers and lock washers.

It turns out both of my rear main springs were cracked and had to be replaced.

If I had to do it all again, I might upgrade to thicker springs instead of 1 3/4 I'd go with 2 1/2"- I think Jim Carter sells a kit that includes the end mounts for around $450. I paid $400 for just the spring rearch- a little more for the new shacles and bolts... So, for the same money I could have gotten better springs=

I made my own perch and drilled the hole to line up the diff to position it in the correct location.It worked perfect.

Thanks guys. For now I'm going to take the easy way out and use the offset plate I fabricated. Will move the diff 1" to the rear....hopefully it won't foul up the spring geometry too much. Lot's of "if's" with this diff...it's an Australian Borg Warner 9 bolt from an 88 IROC-Z V-8 stick Camaro...3.08 with posi and discs but it was 62" like the stock torque tube diff so will give it a shot.

Once again...I appreciate your input and have some good options if my setup doesn't pan out!

Dave

You might find that the 62 inches is too narrow for more modern rims 'cause the backspacing is different. That's what happened to me. I had a nice 10 bolt posi from a retired police caprice classic- 62" turned out I needed 64 or 65 'cause the newer rims mount further towards the outside than the original ones- I guess I could have used a 1" spacer and longer bolts but found a nice 12 bolt-

Hope your disc brakes work out!

Stock up on the axle seals. One is easy to find at any parts store, one is special order from the dealer. Least it was a few years back when I owned an '88 IROC.

Thanks for the info guys. Will stock up on a set of rear seals....the install went fine, will run one shock in the stock position and reverse the other to clear the offset disc. The stock diff was 62" wide and the PO had 8" rims with 3-1/2" backspacing, H78/15LT tires which were inside the rear fenders but not by much. Hopefully an 8" rim with 4" (centered)a 255 or 235/70/15 should work okay on the rear. Will bolt on the CPP front disc brackets tomorrow....hopefully, the 4" back space will clear the tie rod ends.

Once again, I appreciate your responses. Dave