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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,131 Posts1,056,727 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 11 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 11 | I am in the process of replacing the floor pan on the passenger side of my 53' AD. I ordered and recieved the pan from Jim Carter's. My question is, the replacement pan is long enough to go about 2 inches underneath the seat base. The seat base appears to be welded to the floor as there are no bolts that attach it to the body. What is the best way to tackle this? Do I need to remove the seat base to do this correctly? Any help would be appreciated. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 334 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 334 | Hi Doug, Welcome to the Bolt! If the floor is good up to the seat base, you could cut the new panel so that it ends at, or in front of the seat base and weld it in. Just because the new panel is bigger doesn't mean that all of it has to be used. Sometimes it is better to use less - only the amount needed to repair the damaged area. Samantha | | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 11 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 11 | Thanks Samantha,
I guess my only concern is the cut out for the battery hatch comes right up to the seat base. I am at work today, but will take a look when I get home and see if your idea will work.
Thanks for your input,
Doug. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 442 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 442 | that sound like what I did Doug, take a close look at it, do more than one fitting of the panel, and step back and think about it. I have mine butted up to the seat riser base, and looks pretty good. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 11 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 11 | I had some time today to work on the project. The unfortunate part is that I had to cut the cross member out that supports the floor pan. They are spot welded together and I didn't see any other way. I seperated the cross member from the old pan and will have to weld that back in first and then weld the new panel in. Nothing is easy but it should be solid and look decent when it is done. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The seat riser also serves as a brace for the floor. Therefore it is important to end up with that structure as close to the original as possible. What this means is if you replace the metal underneath the lip, you have to get that joint as flat and tight as possible. I went through this whole procedure so I remember what it was like. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 | Doug
I did the exact replacement on my truck, but I didnot cut the cross memeber rather I carefully drilled out the spot welds and cut the new peice upto middle of battery tray and welded althoghter and looks awesone and fit was perfect. When I put the battery lit, it fits right.
Ganesh | | |
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