The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay heater motor wiring

I have a motor that I am putting in my fresh-air heater. the number on it is 3048fs12v2635 (from memory, I forgot to bring the number to work with me) It has four wires red, black, yellow and green. A couple questions, How many speeds is this motor and How do I wire it? I have the heater completely disassembled and painted and will be putting it back together this coming weekend.

2 possibilities. If it is a multi speed motor, black will be ground & red, yellow, & green would be high medium, & low. It could be a universal motor that is wired differently for proper rotation direction. You will need direction's if that,s the case. They usually have the scematic on the motor.

No schematic that I noticed, Will a ohm meter test tell me anything or should I just put some juice to each wire and see what happens?

bump, any help/advice appreciated. I can't find anything on the net about this motor.

That is what I'd do.

I would test resistance between the black wire and the other three wires.(separately)
The lowest resistance should be high, and the highest resistance should be low.

thanks guys that lectrical stuff has always been over my pay grade.

Ran the ohm meter test and the black/ground and red/hot gives me a reading. no combination of yellow and green with any other wire gives me anything. Hooked up to the battery charger it runs on apparent high with the black/ground and Red/hot but nothing with any other combination. Any ideas? The motor was "made" (not hecho) in Mexico and has this number stamped in it 3048fs12v7625.

There are only 6 possible combinations.(12 if you reverse the leads to the meter)

Black - Red = continuity (0 ohms)
Black - Yellow = open (infinity)
Black - Green = open

Now try

Green - Red
Green - Yellow
Yellow - Red

You might try the continuity test backwards in case there is a diode preventing a complete circuit.

Red - Black
Red - Green
Red - Yellow
Yellow - Black
Yellow - Green
Green - Black

It seems red would be constant and the grounding would have resistance. (Black, Yellow, Green)

I'd expect that the extra wires would be for different rotation, requiring some internal rearranging same as on an AC motor .... the single speed would be normal for a heater fan, with the dash switch supplying the resistance necessary to provide the reduced speeds of lo and med

providing you think it's turning the right direction for your fan blade, should be fine hooked up like factory, red wire to the switch, black to ground, inline fuse from switch to a power source

Bill

here are the results of the test



Black - Red = continuity (0 ohms) 0
Black - Yellow = open (infinity) 1
Black - Green = open 1

Now try

Green - Red open 1
Green - Yellow continuity 0
Yellow - Red open 1

You might try the continuity test backwards in case there is a diode preventing a complete circuit.

Red - Black continuity 0
Red - Green open 1
Red - Yellow open 1
Yellow - Black open 1
Yellow - Green continuity 0
Green - Black open 1

power to the black red combination runs the motor. power to the green and yellow wires just makes sparks.

I suspect that it is like Bill has said, and the Yellow and Green wires allow the fan to reverse directions.

Might be a good idea if you eat a lot of beans and brussels sprouts

I would try connecting the yellow green winding in series with the main winding. Attach the yellow to the red and apply power to the black and the green. Maybe this is some type of series compensation winding. I am only guessing here.

Ahh - like the red and black could be one speed, and the green and yellow another, and power to both circuits would be a third? I found a link to directions for hooking up a cooling fan motor with all the same color wires. It had said to hook up the red to your A/C compressor wire, so the cooling fan would be on when the compressor was on. The other two wires would be hooked to a switch on the dash for auxiliary cooling as needed.(or could be connected to temp. sensitive switch for the same reason)

I wish I understood all that. The black/ground and red/hot seems to be the only combination that makes the motor run. Do you think you can find that diagram again?

54Tow,
I was wondering if the yellow and green were some type of speed control. They can't take full voltage as apparently they produce "sparks". I don't know enough about DC motors but maybe he should try running it with the red and black and then try connecting the green and yellow together to see what happens. I think the motor is not made for the heater application.

Sooo do you think it could be a wiper motor and the other wires are for parking it or something? What are the odds that the FS in the part number means it is a F@&d part? When it quits snowing I will see what happens when I connect green to yellow and/or I juice the yellow wire with the motor already running. Isn't green usually a universal indication of a ground wire? The black wire is pre-made with an eyelet for ground to the housing.

I think you have a newer motor
Read this

That's for a radiator fan but the wiring might work for my heater or wiper motor whichever it is. It runs the heater fan pretty good on the one speed I am aware of, sure would like to be able to slow it down some though.

That's the article I was referring to earlier- I couldn't find it when you asked up above.

I knew the fan motor app. was different, thought it might help clarify the motor lead questions.
Can't you put it on a switch with a resistor like the original motors? They were only single speed too, weren't they?

sounds like you got a newer motor that requiers either a resistor pack to be mounted or a motor that is meant for different application. I would not suggest adding power to the other two wires while it is running until you know exactly what kind of motor you have. I don't know if you bought it used but try a resistance test to see if the windings are sorted to the houing which could give you sparks.