Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,048 Posts1,055,664 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 217 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 217 | I've got the 235 broken down to replace the gaskets but I wanted to clean the block without completly breaking it down to the bare block. I've still got the head on and the valvetrain inplace,the pan on etc. I would like to get to grease in the knooks and cranies of the head bolts and the oil stains on the block so I can paint it. Any suggestions on a cleaner and procedure (taping off areas etc.)? Thanks, Rick......... | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Well, a power washer works great, but you can use a garden hose with Gunk or Purple Power which is more enviromentally safe. Definitely plug up any spot you think water will get into the block. Leave the spark plugs in the head.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,200 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,200 | Castrol Degreaser works very well for this, along with what has been suggested. Let it soak for while, scrub some, spray more cleaner, soak, scrub, and when you thinnk you got it all, do it one more time. Then get to a car wash or power washer, and go at it. Garden hose works with a spray nozzel, just not as good as a power washer.
Go rent a 3500 psi unit and hit the frame while you have it.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I used a chemical that is sold for cleaning paint brushes. I brush it on, scrape and repeat. It cleaned my block so well that I had some flash rust forming after. | | | | | | ZooKeeper Unregistered | | ZooKeeper Unregistered | I have always had good luck using a stiff brush w/diesel or kerosene and then washing it down w/paint thinner or mineral spirits....joe | | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2009 Posts: 99 | I especially like the expierence of car/power washing. Little bits of grease/oil will fly, into your clothes, your mouth, on your glasses. What not wearing glasses? You will next time.
As mentioned elsewhere on stovebolt, be sure to clean all bolt holes of debris and fluids. Water etc can stay down in there for a suprisingly long time.
Dave.
What's the last thing a red neck says, "Hey guys watch this." What's the last thing a redneck hears, "Go ahead Bubba, you can do it."
Build plan: 65 Chevy one ton, 5.9L Cummins HO, NV5600 six speed, 2wd 1972-1987 IFS disk front, frame off restore/mod, custom dump/flat bed, Alcoa rims, Dana 70 3.73:1 duals drum rear, plush interior, Guards red with Marine Corps decals. Donor is retired 2002 Ram 2500, 194K miles.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 | I have used most of the items mentioned above, but each time before priming or/and painting I rewash with Simple Green and scrub brush. If left over night you will get a light cover of rust. So you know that all the grease and oil film is gone. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 217 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 217 | thanks all for the suggestions. Now I have to get the geting. Rick.......... | | |
| |