The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (rfs56trk, Hotrod Lincoln, dgrinnan, Otto Skorzeny), 108 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,164
Posts1,056,968
Members48,458
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 49
4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
4 Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 49
My son and I are restoring a 1941 Chev 1/2 ton. There are some questions we need to ask but will start with the rear window installation. The window was removed by someone else. I am not sure if all the parts are with the truck but we have the glass, the rubber seal and the metal ring. The seal is about 3 feet long and there are no holes in it, but there are holes in the retaining ring. What is the best way of installing this seal and window

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,312
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,312
Not sure if this is the right way, however it worked for my '40
Laid out glass on 3/4" plywood, traced perimeter. Banged in nails around the perimeter, and laid rubber gasket material around nails to determine correct length. Glued ends together.
Put a little vaseline on each " stud " location on metal frame, then set it down onto the rubber gasket to locate holes. Drilled rubber gasket. 2 man job to install window - need to get screws started from inside while pressing hard on outside. Once screws are all started, tighten a few turns alternating until all snug.


1940 Chevy KC 1/2-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,201
F
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,201
That's ingenious britcon. I bet you could let your rubber sit around the nails for a few days to help with the shaping of the corners too.


1953 Chevrolet 3600
Fried Green T'mater (Vern)
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Caution: Political Statement
Man who runs in front of car gets tired, man who runs behind car gets exhausted.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 101
D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 101
Subscribing to this thread.

I've got a "46" (but it's got a '41 cab I found out). I bought it without the rear window being in it. The seller gave me the new window & rubber he bought from Jim Carters, but not the metal ring. I found a ring, though has a few minor waves. Will those "pull out" by installing it, or should I do some straightening of it with a mallet?

So Britcon, what do you glue the ends together with? I had no idea that had to be done, I thought the ends just butted together at the bottom center of the window. Why would you use the nails? Why can't you just wrap the rubber around the window with the glass IN the rubber groove and THEN set the metal ring down on the rubber to drill the holes? Does anyone know if the Steele brand rubber comes pre-drilled?

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,048
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,048
I got my rubber ring from Chevy’s of the 40’s. It came as a complete circle, the ends were already glued. Using the outside metal piece as a guide I drilled the screw holes. What I did find was that the holes had to be larger on the outside to allow the thread bosses to set into the rubber. Be very careful to tighten the bolts evenly. That outside piece is a zinc (pot metal) die-casting


1941 Chevy Master 3/4-Ton
In the Gallery
More images in the Bolt Bucket

Born to fish, the truck is only a hobby.
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 18
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 18
Dan,

Extruded window rubbers, after cut to length and fitted to your taste, glue them with Loctite "Black Max 380".
It is from the family of superglues so take care not to glue your fingers.
It is perfect for bonding rubber ends together. Very strong bond.

Can be had at most industrial supply stores that sell Loctite products.
Not all carry it in stock, it is easy to get though. After use, store in fridge, it will prolong the life of the remainder in tube.

Rick M.


The sooner we get older, the later we get smarter.
The Older I get, the Faster I was!


1945 Chevy Art Deco 2-Ton Truck ~ El Gringo Loco
1949 Chevy Magnum Cab ... to be!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 49
4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
4 Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 49
Ok, Guys --Thanks for the tip. Your explaination sounds good.
When the weather warms up here, will let you know how it works. We probably got more question for this forum as we slowly restore our 41 chev 1/2 ton. Pictures will also be coming soon.

41 Chevy


Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0